It didn’t take long for the Dirty Dart to weasel its way into my heart; after all, who can resist a beat-up underdog of a car that probably gets more attention than everything else I own except the ’53 Buick? The Dart’s best attribute is that it has reminded me how much I love cars that are just a little bit roached. There’s a certain freedom in a unique beater, and the Dart’s mine.
It’s not that the Dirty Dart isn’t quirky and lemonesque; in fact, one could describe its tenure with me as being fraught with foibles. First, the speedometer displays a reading that is roughly 10 percent fast. I tried to resolve that by installing some 14″ wheels with taller tires on the back, but the speedometer remains 10 percent off (as verified by GPS). I have no idea how that’s physically possible in the world of mathematics that we occupy, but there you go.
One may ask why I don’t simply change the speedometer driven gear. In early Chrysler A-Body land, said gears are uncommon and expensive, like roughly 100 dollars expensive. So that’s why. One may also ask why I was willing to drop over 100 dollars on a pair of new tires when I already had new tires on it. Well, my calculations estimated that the engine was turning 3300 RPM at 70 with the 185/70R13s on the back, and these tires theoretically dropped that to 3100 RPM. That’s not greatly significant, but it’s a step in the right direction.
Under the long, graceful, peeling hood, the old steering box was as worn out as most of my idioms. Luckily, I found a somewhat less worn used one to go in its place. Unfortunately, the exhaust shop treated the steering box as a non-replaceable unit, bending the pipe in a fashion that rendered access to steering box bolt number three nigh on impossible. This required unbolting the engine and jacking it up to the limit of its travel, and even then my dexterity was severely tested.
My wagon also needed new lower ball joints and a new idler arm. All of this is nice, but I’ve noticed that the steering doesn’t return to center as easily as it used to. The alignment is good, so I’m guessing the new Moog parts need a little time down the road to loosen up a bit. At least that’s what I’m telling myself to get my mind off the “new parts curse,” which simply denotes my observation that new parts aren’t built like they used to be.
It may come as no surprise that the Dart has suffered from some electrical maladies. It had no dome light when I bought it, so I installed a used one, and luckily, someone had the foresight to tape the original factory wire to the headliner, so I only needed to splice in the new lamp. The gas gauge still doesn’t work, and the temperature gauge pegs as soon as I start the engine.
In a futile attempt to alleviate these issues, I’ve tried two printed circuits, two sending units (for the temp gauge), two temp gauges, and tested for voltage to the gas gauge. I’ve even tried two gas gauges (I bought a used instrument cluster) with no luck, and I’m sick of working on that. Instead, I adhere to the time honored ritual of filling the tank every 200 miles. I also installed an auxiliary temperature gauge. At least the ammeter works well.
As I mentioned in a previous installment, I replaced the tired 170 with a 225 from a ’74 Charger. I initially used the Holley 1920 from the Dart’s original engine, but the power enrichment system was physically broken; the metering block corner that held the plastic power enrichment lever cracked, leaving it lying in the float bowl. Therefore, I swapped on my only other option, the Charger’s Holley 1945. Unfortunately, this carb is pre-catalytic converter, peak malaise. It was lean, as verified by the seat of my pants and my wideband O2 setup. I jetted up two sizes, which helped, but the idle and transition circuits are still unacceptably lean, which will require some deft enlarging of idle restrictors with some pin drills. Or….
I may just use one of the two ancient rebuilds I found on eBay this winter. One’s another Holley 1920, and the other is a Carter BBS from a ’73 D100 truck (which was reputedly rich because trucks weren’t subject to emissions laws yet). I also bought matching choke stoves for each, so I’ll have plenty of opportunities to tinker.
When I first bought the Dart, the windshield wipers wouldn’t park correctly, and it took hours of examining wiring schematics and switch operation for me to determine that someone in the past had tucked one of the necessary wires up into the dashboard.
Therefore, I now have perfectly parking wires that also have a variable speed function, which is handy, even though I almost never drive my old cars in the rain.
In a moment of weakness, I splurged for new carpet and weatherstripping to replace the disgusting specimens that came with the car. Unfortunately, the weatherstripping is very tight, and I’m still shutting the doors harder than I should have to. Ah, the joys of new parts on old cars…at least the new carpet is a noticeable improvement.
Of course, this is all par for the course when tinkering with old cars. I’ve found that my priorities include having a car that reliably runs and drives and stops and steers. Major systems should work, including all lights and signals. Wipers should work, but washers don’t have to. Strange noises bother me, so I try to attend to them (although the Dart does have a whiny differential that may stay whiny for a while). As long as those systems are go, I can be satisfied with my old junk.
At first, I walked around the Dart seeing nothing but the laborious, expensive work I’d need to do to make it pretty, but I soon realized that it’s already the perfect beater, so I don’t have to dump a bunch of time and money into it to enjoy it. As a result, my sight unseen junkyard clunker has turned into a reasonable deal, and 50 years later, just like the ads said, Dodge put a Dart in my heart.
I like everything about this story except that it makes me feel like a lazy slob with ten thumbs. 🙂
Happy Darting, Aaron!
Wonderful philosophy for the Dart. It’s good to see your fondness of it as I seem to remember some apprehension when you got it.
Just out of curiosity, what range of fuel mileage are you seeing?
Mileage is worse than I expected…the best I’ve seen is 18.5 highway (with speedometer corrected by 10%), but in mixed driving it’s more like 16. It’s not much better than my V8 cars.
Your mileage seems to be about what my 71 Scamp got, which I found disappointing as well. Too bad Chrysler never really got into overdrives like others (Ford and Studebaker come to mind) did.
Oh yeah, have you tried my favorite slant six performance trick yet? Double heat shield gasket under the carb, then jack the timing up until just before it starts to knock on acceleration (about 10 degrees, IIRC). Performance really jumps, as does fuel mileage. But you have to go back to stock in cold weather.
The current carb kits come with a thick gasket that acts as a heat shield, so in a way I have. 🙂
I’m running 8* initial right now, which corresponds to low 30s total, low 40s with vacuum advance, and it won’t take more without a slight vacuum advance ping. The canister’s not adjustable, and I just haven’t gotten around to fabricating a limiter or anything yet.
“The current carb kits come with a thick gasket that acts as a heat shield, so in a way I have. :)”
A gasket of about 3/8 inch thick or a touch more? Yup. Now add a second one. You may need to back the manifold bolt out just a touch to get enough thread to bolt the carb back down. I am no engineer and have no idea why, but with that extra 3/8 inch of gasket, the slant six will tolerate a ton of extra timing advance without knocking. Spec is zero degrees BTDC, and I used to run 10-12 degrees BTDC. And that was on regular gas.
The problem in cold weather is that the car runs like crap during warmup, which covered most of my local driving. So, my rule was single gasket/stock timing in winter, double gasket/advanced timing in summer.
That’s lower than what I thought. My Slant Six+3AT with lockup torque converter returns 23 mpg on highway ( 55mph ) in ’78 they must make some adjustment for CAFE, but you don’t have the annoying catalytic converter at the same time ( it is so hot that my cat never stays above it ) and my number is just 2 off from their ad. I think with some tuning and adjustment, your Dart can get 20 on highway.
Excellent work Aaron, I enjoy the dirty Dart updates as much as I hope you enjoy the car.
I’m hoping, hoping to get some seat time in the VW this year. Spring daily driver repairs are out of the way, motorcycle brakes next then it’s VW time..
Awesome update! Love the Dart, and I agree, driving an older car with a few dings is quite liberating,
I’ve heard some pretty negative things about Moog as of late, unfortunately. The 4Runner forum that I’m on admonishes the use of Moog lower ball joints, a highly stressed part on the double wishbone front end of these 4Runners. There have been a few reported failures within as little as several hundred miles. Outsourcing to suppliers and “Made in China” is taking its toll. I just installed some Moog brand lower control arm bushings and camber bolts (with nice zerk fittings), along with sway bar end links, I hope they hold up for at least 5 years. I used $50/pair Moog brand rear springs on the 4Runner to replace sagging 18 year old stock units, between the new springs and the Monroe air shocks, something is giving me too soft and too uncontrolled of a ride. My next course of action is getting some OEM Toyota parts to make things right. When it comes time to replacing those lower balljoints, I’m going for OEM Toyota as well. Thankfully genuine Toyota parts are relatively reasonable for my vintage of 4Runner ($40 shocks, $70 springs). The lower balljoints are a bit pricey at $90 per side, but I’ll gladly pay that to keep my wheel attached to my car reliably for the next 100k miles.
You’ve described my fears exactly. As far as I know, nobody but Moog (and maybe the wildly expensive Rare Parts) reproduces ball joints for this thing. I guess I could try to find some NOS ones, but that may be tough!
Love the Dart.
Growing up, my best friend’s dad had a 64 2-door, slant 6 4sp Dart.
Amazing you can get carpet for the Dart but I can’t get carpet for my 90 CIvic Wagon…
An inexpensive 60s Chrysler product that isn’t that light brown so overused back then….you are already ahead on appearance.
Normally, I’d go for a rare Dart over an almost as rare Valiant, but my fondness for Plymouths would have had me looking (in vain?) for a Valiant wagon.
I love how the slant 6 sits way over on 1 side of the car while the intake manifold reaches all the way across to the opposite side….like some engineer thought: “hey, there’s all that room, I’m going to use it even if I don’t have to.”
I had a 69 Valiant that pegged the water temperature gauge on long hills….turned out to be a clogged air cleaner.
Love these small Chrysler wagons, you are envied by me.
That engineer really did his homework, those long runners are a boon to smooth, healthy, low end torque.
Were you being chased by a grimy old Peterbilt when that happened?
I think it is nice enough to be a step or two above a beater classic. A nice driver though which is the perfect condition for a usable classic to be in. You aren’t afraid to use and and perform any reasonable upgrades. Nicely done.
Looks like the dirty Dart is really coming along. Sounds like about the only thing left to try on the gas and temp gauge are to run new separate wires to them. Did you change the steering box the same time you changed the suspension parts? I have adjusted these types of steering boxes too tight with the screw and nut to take up slack, and that has caused the steering to not “self center”. Loosening up the adjustment on the box cured that problem. If the alignment was not properly reset after the front end work this could also be a cause. Your car looks better than “beater” status, more like daily driver condition.
I actually changed the steering box later on (and I made sure to back off the original box’s adjustment just to rule out the steering box as the problem.
Unfortunately, the troubles began when I installed the ball joints/idler arm at the same time.
I guess that pretty much narrows it down to the new parts binding up, as you say they may loosen up after some use.
I like this Dart more and more, and I liked it a lot to start with.
That gauge problem sounds like a ground problem to me, or maybe a loss of voltage somewhere. Does the oil pressure light work? Does your car use firewall plugs for connecting electrical into the body? It might be time to bypass those plugs for a circuit or three. Big Old Chryslers is probably the guy to go to for mid 60s Mopar electricals.
Agreed, it does sound like a ground issue for the gauges. You might check the ground wire off the fuel gauge sending unit.
As for the temp gauge. Try checking the ground to it. Some types of temp sensors use the block as a ground and others have a ground wire.
On the speedometer, have you checked to see if somebody changed the gearing in the rear end? That will throw off the speedo.
It’s been a while since I’ve messed with that, but I think I ran a jumper to ground to double check that problem. I didn’t run an extra ground from the temp sensor, but both gauges behaved differently: one didn’t read, the other pegged, so it’s almost certainly an issue in the cluster somewhere.
I checked the gearing, and it’s original, 3.23:1, and the speedometer gear matches the one listed in the shop manual. It’s kind of a mystery at this point, but I just keep the 10% difference in mind when I drive. 77 is 70, 66 is 60, and so forth. No big deal…
In your second installment I gave you the basics to get started in properly diagnosing the fuel gauge. At that point the report was that the temp gauge was working. The fact that the temp gauge has gone to pegging indicates that there is a short to ground between the gauge and sender.
It really isn’t hard to properly diagnose the gauge system on a Ford/Chrysler/AMC/IH of this era. It is usually much quicker and certainly cheaper and less frustrating than throwing parts at it.
I really enjoy reading about your life with CC’s. Great stuff and appreciate the latest on the Dart!
I would try to find a 2bbl manifold from a Super Six for it. Sweet car!
Ah, the trials and tribulations of those mid 70 Mopar carbs. I went through the same thing on my 73 Polara. Actually two things since the 73 came with some of the first electronic ignitions. Tinkered endlessly and then gave up putting in a Pertronix Ignition. Problem 1 solved. Tried two Holley 2bbl carbs and could never get the accelerator pump to work correctly. Always fun trying to take off from a dead stop faster than a tortoise. Neither carb could be truly tuned to a steady idle and with the last one having vacuum readings range between 700-1000 in idle I was done.
So what to do. I love all my Autolite carbs be it 2100 or 4100 and wished I could put a 2100 on. Then saw an adapter, on Ebay, to put on a Motorcraft 2150 from the 70’s. Put a chrome air cleaner on top, since the throat was bigger, and no one is the wiser. Oh, and she runs smooth as silk now with a steady idle, timing and vacuum readings.
Oooh…I have a couple 2100s lying around, but they’re not cable operated like my Dart’s current carbs, and I’d have to find some kind of two barrel to one barrel adapter. I’d rather not go Super Six right now because of the money aspect, but also because I have a sealing manifold currently, and would rather not open that can of worms if I don’t have to… 🙂
The main issue with the 1945 right now is that I have to run the idle mixture screw 3.75 turns out, so it’s obviously lean.
Love your wagon.
You need a trailer hitch. I don’t know if your gas tank is under the cargo area floor pan, but if it is, a hitch is your solution to the gas gauge.
My ’72 Pontiac Grandville had a sticky fuel tank float or some such problem – however the gauge worked. Occasionally, the 455 would travel a few hundred miles and not even put a dent in the full tank as reported on the dash – while I loved the concept, I didn’t love running out of gas.
So, I’d grab the trailer hitch, shake it back and forth a few times, and listen for the slosh in the tank. I got pretty good at “reading” my tank this way.
My 59 Fury had a gas gauge that would short to “full” in wet weather, so sometimes the gauge worked, sometimes it didn’t. It had a straight 45 degree filler tube. I kept a 5 foot wooden stick in the garage that I could run down the filler pipe to get a read on fuel level, just like the guys checking the underground tanks at the gas station. An inch meant fill up, and three inches or more meant I was fine.
Speedos always read fast it releases the manufacturer from liability of speeding tickets, We get a 10kmh leeway allowance for speeding due to inaccuracy of speedos though the combination of a 3.89:1 rear axle 205/60×15 series tyres and a 66 Superminx speedo drive gear has rendered my Hillman speedo accurate by GPS, it goes to show you can fluke accuracy if you jumble the parts enough.
A three on the tree – not a Torqueflite? How is the acceleration and the shifts going?
There is a HUGE gap between second and third, and a slightly less huge gap between first and second. I’d certainly rather have a four-speed, but it’s OK. I still haven’t perfected getting it into the unsynchronized first gear while I’m still rolling without a little clashing. My double-clutching still can use some work. 🙂
I’ve found that Mopar 3-speed transmissions are harder to double-clutch into first gear than Ford ones. Why that is, I don’t know.
Thanks Aaron,I thought I’d missed an instalment
Nice to see an update on the Dart. So, will I see it at the Motor Muster in June? A few years ago, the announcers at the pass in review went absolutely squishy when a Country Squire showed up, because, they said, “that kind of car usually is just used up and thrown away”
Now, if Kieth will check in with an update on the Jag.
I enjoy these updates. I’m surprised to see that the windshield washer doesn’t consist of a big black plunger with a flapper valve on the floor by the high beam switch. That’s what my ’71 Scamp had. Was it a victim of decontenting, or did Darts have a higher level of equipment than Valiants?
I’m not sure about the mid ’60s, but I know in the ’70s the 2 speed wipers with the manual washer was standard, and the 3 speed or variable speed wipers with electric washer was an option.
Great read. Congratulations on the Dart successes to date.
The front end looks very similar to the 64 , 65 , Rambler Americans.
LoveLoveLOVE that Dart! Thanks for the updates.
I would have a hard time not swapping in the 340 and a 4 speed that I have on my garage floor so Im glad its with Aaron and staying original.
Aaron, I might have missed it in the story, but the gas and temp gauges get power from the instrument panel voltage limiter, so generally when one guage goes bad, so does the other, as well as the oil psi guage if it had one. The easiest test is go to the gas tank, disconnect the sender wire, and check that it is grounded with a clip lead. Turn the key to ‘run’ and the gauge should peg to full.
“The easiest test is go to the gas tank, disconnect the sender wire, and check that it is grounded with a clip lead. Turn the key to ‘run’ and the gauge (or voltage regulator) should fry”.
There fixed it for you. Seriously never ever ground a sender wire to test a gauge in an older Ford/Chrysler/IH/AMC vehicle. It will result in excessive current flowing through the gauge in question if the system is good. That can fry the gauge and/or instrument cluster voltage regulator. A good old fashioned incandescent test light is the proper way to test the gauges. It tests the continuity of the circuit, the operation of the voltage regulator and the general condition of the gauge in one simple operation.
Yes you may get away with the ground the sender wire test but you may also fry a gauge so it just isn’t worth it. If you don’t have an incandescent test light to do the test go out and buy one it is the most important tool for diagnosing electrical problems.
I also tested for voltage at the gas gauge (with my test light) and got voltage, but still no reading. I may have two burned up gas gauges…I can imagine it wouldn’t take much more than a sticky voltage limiter to burn one of them up pretty quickly, and 50 years can do some strange things.
As far as the temp gauge is concerned, one doesn’t read, the other maxes out immediately, precluding a short to ground in the wiring (I would imagine), since two gauges behave differently.
Having five of these things, I have to prioritize, and getting to the bottom of the gas gauge is pretty low on the list. Call me lazy, but I guess it’s not a big enough deal for me to tear into it anymore, at least as of right now. Maybe one of these days.
No the fact that the one doesn’t read at all does not mean that the problem is not a short in the wiring. It could be that it is a bad gauge.
A disconnected gauge is easy to test. put an ohm meter between the two terminals it and it should be around 20 ohms. Also check between each stud and the case there should be no continuity. Or grab a couple of AA, C or D batteries and connect them in series with across the gauge terminals. If it is good and in reasonable calibration you’ll get a reading of around 1/2.
Seriously fixing gauges is very easy. I’ve talked dozens of people through it.
I grounded the sender but still got nothing at the gas gauge.
Strangely, I tested the voltage at the temp sender and it pulsated between 0 and 5 volts (I believe). Mine definitely has the voltage limiter in the gas gauge rather than plugged in at the back of the panel (which sure would have been a lot easier!)…
Lately, I’ve been wondering if a nice 318 might be cooler than a slant six. 🙂 I doubt it’ll happen though…
Taking a voltage reading is absolutely worthless.
I use Post-It Notes with the odometer reading and date one them to see when to fill up. Gas gauge on my 63 Valiant Signet went out a couple of years ago.
Same thing as with yours, Arron65: went from a 170 to a 225. Gas mileage is pretty much what you seem to be getting.
Similar problems, drivetrain and 3 speed manual.
My folk’s new 63 Dart wagon had to be towed because the linkage hung up on it.
Definitely a weak link on mine but it was resolved with a remanufactured stouter z bar from the 67-68 and a willing mechanic who was able to adapt it to fit [a little wider, not a lot of difference but much more meat on it].
Atlas Obsolete has the gas sending unit I’m looking for. That and new carpet are on the list. Loved the write-up, Aaron.
CJinSD: available via the options list, not decontenting. My Valiant Signet was, aside from the convertible, top of the line. And it’s only options were radio, heater and probably whitewalls. Windshield washer, power steering, power brakes, heater, radio, tinted glass, etc were all options.
In regards to the speedometer issue, how accurate is the odometer?
If the tire size, rear end, and transmission gear all match up right, the odometer should be correct even if the speedometer calibration is off.
I had to compensate for a 7% error in my Chrysler for a long time due to too small tires.
Enjoyed the update! Very cool to hear things continue to progress, and also a reminder of how keeping up with all the little issues sounds like it approaches a full-time job!
I understand you 100%. My Volkswagens are much the same. They are presentable old cars that clean up well but are far from perfect so that I can get behind the wheel and relax and actually enjoy the experience of driving them. I don’t know that I will ever want a perfect restored car.