I found myself in need of a Volvo 240 series alternator and since I’m unwilling to pay retail for one this means a trip to the scrapyard. Even though the yard was pretty muddy due to melted snow hooking up a battery charger every night gets old mighty fast. The online inventory for this particular yard is a bit of crap shoot but they listed two 740s which, in theory, have the same alternator. When I arrived the yard actually had a few more Volvos but would any have the desired alternator?
The gold 740 at the top of the page was pretty complete except for a few bits of the trim and, of course, the alternator. The junkyard actually had a 240 series in the form of this 245 station wagon. The body was extremely nice on this one with no rust anywhere although the front fenders looked to have suffered a bit when someone removed the front end. Unfortunately the engine had been stripped of most of its accessories including the alternator. From what I gather they are a bit of trouble spot for these Volvos so tend to get harvested quickly.
A 1991 Volvo 940 Turbo spotted in the distance looked promising but a closer look revealed that the whole engine and gearbox had been liberated. Perhaps an engine swap donor for someone’s normally aspired Volvo 240?
The interior looked pretty decent if you could look past the rat’s nest of exposed wiring.
The 940’s body was very solid looking with the exception of a dent on the rear passenger door. I was sorely tempted to snag those very nineties looking blade style rims for my car but one of them had a chip out of it and all the center caps were missing in action.
When all seemed lost I came across this rather plain looking 1987 Volvo 740. It was very complete but had some serious miles on it. Even brick like Volvos wear out eventually.
Although the car itself was high mileage it had a shiny looking alternator and a brand new belt. Eureka! Due to its high mounted position the alternator was free within a handful of minutes. The internet sources I could find hadn’t been totally clear on alternator interchange but it looked identical to the 240 series one. Despite the very different mounting positions all the brackets were the same which was promising. There was enough left of the 245 wagon engine that I was able to roughly trial fit it before buying.
For forty dollars this alternator was much cheaper than a rebuilt or aftermarket new one. Exponentially cheaper than the massive amount a Volvo dealer wants for the same item.
Comfortably in its new home (under the radiator hose in front the exhaust) fitting the alternator took much longer than removing it from the 740. Hopefully it lasts the life of the car although I’ll no doubt have another excuse to hit the junkyard soon enough.
So running like a champ?
Glad to see I am not the only one who does and enjoys the junkyard shuffle.
There is nothing that can match the feeling of a successful trip to the salvage yard. I might have taken the alternator to a local auto supply chain to get it tested before I spent the time dropping it into its final destination but given how good that alternator looked, maybe not.
That one I had was completely missing the regulator and brushes. Seemed just as easy to grab a new/used unit.
I think SCO meant have the new one tested before actually hooking it up to your car. Makes sense in case it is a dud.
So wheres the pic of your Volvo? It is nice to rear about a fellow Volvo 240 owner’s trials and tribulations. Just remember to clean and attach that exciter wire properly or the alt will not charge and while you are at it go and pull the instrument cluster out and replace the bulb behind the battery light on your cluster as Volvo decided to make that battery light more important then just a warning light on their cars. The charging system needs the battery light to work in order to charge the car. So a blown or missing battery light means the alt will not charge.
I checked the bulb right away. Alas I wasn’t even getting power to the bulb initially. A poor alternator ground as well as the regulator missing. Very strange design though to have the bulb a essential part of the charging circuit especially when the bulb almost never warns of any alternator problem!
I did have to clean the exciter wire as well as the ground wire contacts. It all works nicely for now. Here is my Volvo – a 1984 GLE. Its a Canadian built car roughly equivalent to the US-spec GL.I’ll get around to a full write up soon.
Nice. I love how the car has those center caps. I have been looking for a set for mine. Being that yours is a 1984, I think it has the biodegradable wiring in the engine compartment.
I like my 1990 but It is very tractor like when driving.
I also hope your keeping a spare fuel pump relay in your glove box as those drop dead with no warning. They sit in a stupid place that does not seem to get any air and the solder on the contacts is weak. I have a whole box of them in the compartment under the floor on the trunk.
Also if you have not already, get yourself a Volvo voltmeter or a small aftermarket one(they fit in the holes covered over by a plastic square on the right of the cluster.) That will help you notice when the alt is not charging
From what I understand they are specific to the year and I’m having a hard time finding any 84 examples left. The power locks relay can be used in a pinch apparently (untested).
If you want a redundant circuit, wiring a resistor in parallel with the battery light bulb will excite the needed circuit even when the bulb burns out.
Resistors in the 500 ohm range work well on older Ford charging systems, so I’d assume it works well on Volvos as well.
Lots of vehicles use the charging idiot light as the current limiting device in the alternator excite circuit, so a burnt out bulb causes a no charge situation on lots of vehicles.
David, how many miles did that white ’87 740 (the one at the very bottom) have when you looked at it? Did you get a peek at the odometer?
My 1991 740 just turned 162k miles a few days ago. Right now I’m attempting to go for at least 300k.
From memory it was 580k kms or so. That makes 360k miles or so. Pretty impressive considering our hot summer / cold winter climate is tough on mechanical bits.
I had a 2009 Toyota Corolla that at 38,000 miles the alternator quit. Dealer I bought it brand new from would not give me any goodwill and wanted $700+ to replace it. I bought one on eBay from a salvage yard for $50 and replaced it myself. I didn’t even have to get my shoes dirty! They did replace the transmission under the 60k powertrain warranty when it went, however. Dumped that car in the summer of ’12. Btw, the compressor in my friend’s ’10 Camry just died. Quoted $3000 from the dealer! Unbelievable!
wow,it shows the quality of new Toyotas.my 90 camry with almost 200k miles on clock still running with original alternator.i know bkz its a one owner car.
You can only de-content a product so much before it shows up in the build quality. Toyota is there now.
Water operated cold start switch on my 93 Corona was $1000 ex Japan only used on NZ new toyotas according to Toyota one from a JDM Camry was identical from the wreckers $20, OEM like to rip a new one for each part
Also shows the ‘window’ where parts for relatively new cars can be cheap before there is much demand for them.
my ancient 1995 Explorer went 249,500 miles before the original alternator failed on a road trip. I imagine the brushes wore out but as I was on the road, I elected to toss a parts store unit on it- which I’ve replaced twice now in the last 75,000 miles.
I had a 164E once. And that’s all I’ll say on that subject…
I must be getting old. In my mind, a rebuilt alternator is still a $25 item on sale and with an exchange. I suspect everyone is going to tell me that time has moved on.
It must depend upon what it is. My last alternator for my Crown Vic was about $90 but that was for a police model, so I’m sure if that’s more or less expensive. The alternator on my ’87 Dodge D-250 was about in that $25 range several years ago.
Volvo wanted $500+. Aftermarket one was $200 at the cheapest. A generic Chevy one is still probably quite cheap. Also probably much everything costs more in Canada.
$500,I was going to ask why go to the trouble of taking one out of a scrapper I can see why now!,The last time I changed an alternator it cost £18 exchange for a guaranteed recondition one for my Mk4 Ford Cortina
Breaks my heart to see all those clean looking old Volvos in the junkyard. Can’t help but wonder that with a little time and effort, they could have seen years more of service. My 940 just turned 20 and is still going strong, but than again I’m only driving it 2000 miles per year!
For scrapped cars, these Volvos are in great shape, body-wise. Limited UV damage too.
You passed on some Hydras (the wheels!) They really look good on 240s.
They had some minor damage and no center caps. The yard wants $320 for the set.
David,
How did I miss the fact that you owned a Volvo? I am so embarrassed 🙂
My dad had an ’84 GL he got brand new, it was silver with tan leather, the Corona alloys and wind-open sunroof. I loved that car.
I think this is the first I’ve mentioned it. A recent addition to take over winter duties from the 220D.
Y’ know, I think I’ve only ever had to replace an alternator twice in 30+ years of driving. One was perhaps the 78 Ford Fairmont, the other definitely the 83 Civic, as I recall having to do that one myself.
I’ve also replaced, or had replaced several thermostats, including a year ago Sept in the Mazda I drove now.
I did have one starter go, and that was in the Fairmont. I replace that SOB on my own as well.
However, I’ve had to replace the washer fluid bottle once, and I think it was the 83 Civic, and had to find one at a junkyard and replace that, and had a wiper switch also go, again that Civic, as did the Squirrel cage fan since the regulator for speed went, giving me ONLY high speed.
The donor car was a crapped out, dead 80 Civic a buddy of mine bought in rough, but great running condition for $500. It had been a Minnesota car much of its life at the time he bought it IIRC, it had been brought out to Seattle not too long before I don’t think. Anyway, he went to have the clutch replaced, only to be told the bolts were too rusty to get out without risking breakage. So we drove it home and as we got into the downtown area of Seattle, blew out both 4th and 5th gears, and that, was the end of that car.
And a junked base 83 Civic hatchback at a junkyard in S Seattle became the donor of its wiper switch (sans intermittent feature) since mine, with intermittent went south.
But this WAS a high mileaged Civic with lots of little things beginning to go finally.
Most of these kinds of things, I did myself, though I’ve had on a couple of occasions had the thermostat replaced by others, and utilized a local shop for things I didn’t have the tools, or knowledge to fix.
On my old 1986 Ford Sierra Ghia (2.0 Pinto engine) I blew the alternator apart doing a top-speed run… This was in the late 1990s, suitable new alternators were eye-wateringly expensive, so a junk yard run sorted that issue – still cost me a couple hundred dollars though. Oh – and I was satisfied that the top speed in the brochure was correct 😉
Very amusing and/or sad to see all those rust free Volvo cars in the AB junkyard. Oh give me a home where the buffalo roam and road salt don’t consume all our cars..
Sadly I haven’t been to a wrecking yard in years, my current maintenance model is to do repairs myself, use OEM parts and replace anything that looks remotely dodgy while I’m in there. These days I don’t have time to do things twice or visit junkyards.
Should be the same(perhaps a different color) The Volvo 740 used the same type of fuel pump relay(it lives in the dash under the radio)
Here is a pic of my 1990 Volvo 240 Wagon last Dec
I wanted a Benz 240D but could not find any so I settled for a Volvo 240 DL
Well I wanted to post a pic but this stupid website keeps telling me i am posting a duplicate post. A bunch of BS if you ask me.
Anyway I will keep an eye out for 1984 fuel pump relays(they have the date stamped on them)
Ignore that. Just select your image and hit “Post Comment”. If you get that message, refresh your browser, and it should be fine.
Damn that blue 245 wagon looked CLEAN (minus the missing front). Wish I coulda seen more pics of that one, I wonder why it got junked, and if the interior and passenger side looked as nice.