I have had this car since 2004 but have not done much work on it since that time other than taking care of it. Well the time has come…
Back in 2004 I was perusing our local Craigslist and ran across this 1967 Mercury Park Lane for sale at $950. It caught my attention but since I was living in an apartment, with four cars already, this wasn’t something I needed. However, month after month it stayed and I told myself if it goes another month it is meant for me to buy. Well the fourth month came and so I called. Turns out I was the only one who even called in that time. Also turns out that Don, the owner, was a NorCal Cougar Club member and I was a Stray Cats member.
So I arranged to drive down to Fremont to see that car. The interior was still covered in plastic from years before and so it was pristine. Someone had a bit of a problem making turns in this long car and managed to hit the rear quarters against some objects. The C6 slipped a little between 2nd and 3rd. The car was Seafoam green and I already had a Seafoam green Cougar. I floated around several blocks and I was in love. Sold, and I drove home so I could catch BART back down to Fremont and drive the car home. Don was the second owner and this car was one that his kids grew up in only now his oldest son was into BMW rather than an old Mercury. Sentimentally, the car did mean a lot to them and I promised to take care of her. Some years later I did communicate with the son that the car was fine.
Then in 2006 we bought a house where upon I set out to replace the old single pane windows and rebuild 60 feet of fence. That means I need a truck! So I found a 1965 F100 out of Fremont to help with transport. After all that was done I told myself I need to restore this truck. So that is what I did.
While doing that we come up to 2010 and I am at a Stray Cats picnic where a club member drives up in his 1973 Air Resource Board Polara replica instead of one of his Cougars. I thought cool I like it. Looking at Craigslist again, it can be habit forming, I saw a 1973 Polara four door hardtop for sale in white. Once again if it stays up this long I have to buy it. So guess what? Yep, it stayed up, I went out, the young seller was in over his head, all others wanted parts, I bought the car. So the truck’s body work is all done and I move on to the Polara. Haven’t seen another one since then. I also have eight cars now and Car Acquisition Syndrome.
So here we are in 2018 and I want to take the big Merc on a possible trip on the east side of the Sierras on Highway 395. This means new tires and a rebuild of the front suspension. Upper ball joints were shot. The control arm bushings were shot. The rest was just old and my trunk had all the new parts needed for the last 5 years. Now I wasn’t all that bad as I did replace the water pump and Ford’s notorious nylon tooth timing chain, with half the teeth under the oil pickup screen, back in 2004.
Dropped out the steering linkage to replace the tie rods. The OEM idler arm was rebuilt with a new bushing. The pitman arm was solid and I only replace the seal. The only strange thing was the fact that the somewhat newer tie rods used metric zerk fittings and I had only SAE in stock. Next the Kelsey-Hayes calipers came off followed by the rotors which were good as were the bearings. Yet new seals and grease for the hubs. Now with the shocks out I brace the lower control arm so I can remove the spindles. Once out I let the lower control arms down while the car is raised up and I am able to remove the springs by hand. Last the upper control arms which are torqued to almost 150 lbs. need to come out and one bolt is directly below the master cylinder. I need an extension here.
My extension made that easy although I just tweaked the master cylinder a touch which came back to haunt me. With the four arms out I drill out the upper ball joints and unbolt the lowers. Clean up the arms really good and go over them with some Picklex 20.
With that I grab my new bushings, some of my tools, and then drive down to the USS Hornet to use the machine shop. Found just the right shaped chisel to remove the first bushing on the upper control arm to start the process. Saw the trick on a Youtube video. The other side could be pushed out by using a socket on one end and a cup on the other. I went through stock and found pipe that could make a cup and put it in the saw to cut to length. Then into the vise to press out old and in new.
The work for Sunday is now done. All bushings in and all hardware cleaned up on the large wire wheel in the shop. Time to go home and paint the control arms with Eastwood Extreme Chassis primer and black paint which will take a week.
Next Sunday and time to reassemble. Control arms and steering linkage go in easily. Now while I could take out the springs by hand they couldn’t go back in by hand. I needed my spring compressor to give me some space to coax the spring into it’s lower seat. Like how I got my glove stuck in there? I did get it back.
Notice above that the caster looks to be slightly negative. So I moved the upper control arm back bolt towards the engine to give me positive caster to start. More on this but first the tires go back on as I now have an appointment to take my car into the tire place for new whitewalls in 15″ diameter.
The car is raised on four jacks and they set about removing and replacing my tires. I then back the car out into a parking spot so I can install four NOS wheel covers I have had since 2005. No gorillas are going to bang these on. I put the stock set on while I have another set of five NOS wheel covers for a different look. Last picture the finished job.
Now comes the part where I could find no one who would consent to doing it. That is the front wheel alignment. It was being left up to me to attempt it. I read the manual and learned how they set caster and camber on this car. Upper control arm mounts with two bolts into slots and the position in the slots determine + or – caster as well as + or – camber. I wanted as much positive caster I could get along with some negative camber. I could tell the previous placement gave me neutral caster and positive camber. After that would be set then I would shoot for 1/8″ toe in.
Here are the tools I would be using. The claw looking tool is what is used to move the upper control arm mount forwards or backwards. You can see the small hole in the before picture.
Being Sunday this parking lot was empty and best of all I knew was flat. I already had the rear bolt all the way inboard for maximum positive caster or at least maximum for this car. Estimate between +2 – 2.5 degrees. The front bolt was all the way outboard. That combination gave me an initial camber of + 1.5 degrees. Therefore I needed to move the front bolt inboard to decrease the positive camber which will also decrease my positive caster. A slight tweak on both sides got the bubble between 0 and -0.5 degrees so I am good to go. These cars were always set for positive camber but I prefer some negative, depending on the car and for a cruiser this was good enough. These tires will never see 20,000 miles in their life so no concern with wear. My caster is still at least +2.0 degrees on both sides.
Crude but it works. I have ship made toe plates, braced with a brick, and then my tape measured pulled taut with the wheel covers bringing up the middle. The measure, adjust, drive back and forth and then repeat all over again took me 1 1/2 hours to get the car to 1/8″ toe in. So I drove home the 2 miles on city streets for now. Still had two more tasks before going out on the freeway for a test drive.
Remember I mentioned tweaking the master cylinder? Well it started a very subtle leak out the back and down the booster. Look around for a new one and see them all over $120 and I’m thinking drat! Let’s take a look on eBay and there is the exact one, Made in the U.S.A., for only $45 including shipping. I check the seller and see that he is my favorite seller who has supplied me with a lot of NOS and NORS parts. Arrives in four days, before the weekend, so I can bench bleed it. Once installed the lines were bleed and checked to see all was good.
The last task. I removed the valve covers for new gaskets as there was the typical small leak out the back end. While at it I pulled the rocker shafts off so I could install a #80 Holley jet in the oil feed and then put the shafts back on after cleaning. The FE engine sends a lot of oil up top when it could be used down below which is the reason for the Holley jet.
Wednesday, my off day, and time to take her out once commute traffic dies down. I hit the freeway at 11:00 am quickly as there is nothing like the torque of a 410-4V FE engine. The wheel handles great. There is none of the small movements of the wheel at 65 mph. On a level spot my hands come off to see if the car will track straight and it does. The car is truly fun to drive and is possibly my favorite due to the ride. My pleasure drive is interrupted by a call from my wife which means I have to get off the road and park to call her back. She asks me to pick up my 4th grade son from school as she can’t make it. So I cruise over at pickup time among all the Escalades, Tahoes, Range Rovers, Benz and BMW SUVs and assorted minivans in line. The looks of the teachers and kids as I turn the corner, as in what is that, is priceless as my son recognizes the car immediately without having his name called.
Now the car is ready for that spring break drive although a large sway bar would be nice. After the return the engine will be pulled for a rebuild at 155,000 miles and at the same time dive into the C6. As for CAS I now have ten cars with one daily driver having been stolen 3 weeks ago and replaced by a new 2018.
A gorgeous car! Two thoughts: First, you bring back some pleasant memories from long ago. I recall my 67 Galaxie 500 convertible as being a first-rate cruiser that was as smooth and quiet as anything from its era, certainly anything within shouting distance of its price range. The interior appointments of your Mercury just take the experience up a notch or three.
Second, I am experiencing some suspension envy. Suspension work is one place where I have never had the courage to tread. And your homemade alignment setup is great. With a good tight suspension I agree that this would be a great driver.
Sweet, sweet ride. And just look at that gorgeous speedometer in the instrument cluster! But I’m surprised to hear you say this thing was fun to drive. I always assumed they were wallowy beasts.
“I always assumed they were wallowy beasts.”
This assumes that a wallowy beast cannot be fun to drive. There are so few wallowy beasts roaming the plain these days that I would consider piloting one of them quite fun indeed. And FWIW, I always found the 1965-70 big Fords less wallowy than the 1971+ versions.
Not that wallowy. It should get better when I replace the 7/8″ stock bar with a 1 1/8″ sway bar.
Good work. I wish I had an aircraft carrier at my disposal 🙂
Ten cars though, oy. I’m down to three cars, a popup trailer and one motorcycle and that’s sufficient fun for me.
It sure was nice when cars were simple (relatively). What a blast to be able do your press work on the Hornet and surprise your son! Like you the tear down was not too bad on my 67 LeSabre. You can’t be shy with the ball joint fork and large mallet though. Assembly is little more muscle intensive – beware of potential energy and slipping spring compressors…
These springs were so much easier to work on than the ones in my Cougar and Mustang. Here you just need to raise the car high, put a jack under the LCA, disconnect anything attached to the LCA, last knock loose the spindle’s lower bolt. Then you lower the LCA till it bottoms out and use a screwdriver to slip the back edge over the lip on the LCA. No tension in the spring at all.
Not going back the same way because of getting past that lip. So the compressor was used to get me about 2 inches and I was able to get it past while raising the jack ever so slightly to keep it in.
If youre a ship guy, you know what Bravo Zulu means and BZ to you for doing your own alignment. You have motivated me to give it a shot since I have recently rebuilt the front end on my ’69 Charger and now it is really out of alignment. Our one local shop that would align old cars without a computer closed up a couple of years ago and none of the others want to even try so it looks like Im on my own. I’ll keep this as a reference.
I also love picking my kids up from school in a classic among the big pickups and SUVs; the kids all stare and the teachers are like “yeah I used to have a lot of fun in cars like these.” Hehe
Im also a CAS-sufferer and 10 car owner. Its Mad Car Disease.
Great job! Seems like a lot of work but I’m sure it will be worth in in the end. I’ll bet this car will steer and ride just like new. Surprised it has front disc brakes, however, didn’t most cars of this era come with all drums? This car seems pretty well optioned so maybe original buyer ordered an upgrade?
Power discs were standard in all ’67 Park Lane & above Mercs.
Strangely, they reverted back to the option the next year and weren’t standard again until 1971. BTW, is that a tilt steering column I see there?
Yes, that is a tilt steering wheel and the turn signal stalk houses Ford’s Cruise Control. Locks and parking brake are vacuum actuated.
How well do you know that vacuum lock system?
When I was 6, we had a new 67 LTD with that option, it was an early unit with the automatic locks. It soon malfunctioned, with the locks being stuck in the locked position. I remember it was very hard to pull up against the vacuum
to open the door. The dealer could not fix it and disconnected the vacuum line.
Any idea what was wrong?
I have the manual but have never had a problem with the system. One of the first things I did when I got the car was to rip out all the old hard vacuum lines and replace with fresh tubing.
In family lore, there lies a tale regarding how my uncle, a senior FoMoCo engineer, would purchase a new car. He would buy Mercuries simply because he thought himself better than Ford material but also too humbly in order to get a Lincoln. They suited him to a T. The first one in memory is a 1966 Colony Park wagon with a black exterior, red interior, and Di-Noc wood paneling. It was used for vacationing in the Midwest and Deep South away from their home city of Cleveland, OH and it performed its job faithfully. I have a feeling this 1967 Park Lane was chosen by its original owner for similar reasons.
Nice work, and very familiar to me. I did almost the exact suspension work on my Torino some years ago now. The uppers and lower control arms are identical, as pretty much all RWD full-frame Fords from 1965-78 used the same basic front end parts (there were some minor variations). Interesting that you had such a hard time with the alignment. I ball parked mine at home, then went to a small shop to get it done. The guy there was pretty good and we worked together to get the car into the specs I wanted (more positive caster and negative camber than stock).
Also a bit a head of you, I am currently in the midst of completing my engine rebuild and C6 rebuild (also after about 150K miles). Although in my case I ended up doing a lot more work than originally intended, good old project creep. Good luck with the Merc on the trip, she’s a really beauty!
I should clarify my comment, in that I meant it’s interesting you had such a hard time finding someone willing to do an alignment. I didn’t mean that it was difficult for you to perform.
FWIW, Hotchkis does offer suspension parts for the ’65-66 Ford, including sway bars. Most of this should interchange with your car.
https://www.hotchkis.net/search-by-vehicle-results/?mk=54&yr=1966&md=2105&sm=20
Your Ford truck looks very nice and the suspension work looks very professional TBM!
Wow, that car looks great, and the interior is perfect! That was a great write-up and explanation of what you did and how you did it. It wouldn’t have occurred to me that getting an alignment done somewhere would be difficult and its great that the Hornet’s tool shop can still be of value.
I hope your trip goes as well as hoped and am sure you will generate lots of friendly waves on the highway!
Very interesting! Nice work!
I would love to have the time to keep up 10 cars, as well as a wife who has the forbearance for that. Actually, I’d like to have just one classic car. My 96 Roadmaster will have to suffice for now.
I didn’t realize getting an alignment on an old car was such an hard thing. That’s scary you have to do that yourself!
The issue with the alignment was two fold. The average shop heard the year and simply deferred. The guy finally recommended a fellow who did older cars particularly Mopars. He took a look and said no because his tools would mount on the wheels.
Today’s cars have their wheels flush with the fender lip. Mine has 2-3 inches of overlap and his equipment wouldn’t mount on my car so he declined. Oh well, onto plan two.
A lot to like here. Your ability to pick up cheap CC’s here in the Bay Area where everything seems overpriced. Your access to the Hornet shop. Your attention to detail and willingness to tackle things like alignment. I’ve done “pseudo alignments” in the past, by assuming that both sides were OK and adding positive caster, negative camber, with equal adjustments side-to-side, and checking toe. But I haven’t done it for decades. Very cool!
You have a very rich experience in classic car ownership and you have nothing but amazing examples.
The prior owner’s son being into BMW is certainly your gain. I cannot fathom why anyone would prefer a money pit BMW over a shallower money pit Mercury. Such thinking is beyond me. 🙂
Actually Dad sold the car and I believe was going to sell his Cougar in order to buy a BMW to join his son.
My dad decided to replace the front springs on his ’65 Checker Marathon sometime around 1974 or so. That cured me of any desire to do suspension work other than checking air in tires.
I really appreciate this article. This is hands on. This is detailed. This is the stuff when today’s pro says the learning curve is too steep. This is an amateur’s work. And if you think “amateur” is a degrading term think again: an amateur is one who loves it. I.e. this is a labor of love.
Thank you , TBM3FAN!
Thank you, Wolfgang. Given as how just over 5100 of these four door hardtops were built in 67 this could possibly be the only one in California left. So I take care of the car just like I promised to do. It was originally sold in San Jose and is now 50 miles away from home.
Unlike the F100 and the Polara, which I painted, the paint on this car is thinning in a few places. I’m still debating about whether to leave it this way, since it is always covered, or really get into it and paint it. I already have the paint but the decision is still open.
Same color in and out as the ’67 Monterey 4 door dad bought around 1970, only difference was no vinyl top on his. 390 and manual windows/locks, did have AC.
Great looking car. Great job on the suspension work, nice to have the Hornets machine shop available, bet she drives great now.
That’s how Bear Grylls does an alignment when he’s dropped into the arctic circle with no food or water.
I had a similar experience after a suspension rebuild where the shop frankly didn’t know what to do if their computer didn’t know what to do. I took it to a hot rod frame and suspension shop where I’m lucky enough to know the guys and they put it on some flat circles with bubble gauges and made it right the old fashioned way.
Thanks for this detailed write-up on a subject we don’t have enough of here.
Hmm, I did another project converting my 73 Polara from the Mopar electronic ignition system over to a more powerful and reliable HEI system. Complete with pictures as I did it for my files.
I would be most happy to see it here. And it would be a good reference for others in the future, as this is clearly the way to go with cars of this vintage.
Got one on the Autolite 2100 series carb conversion you suggested at the M-Body post? 🙂 That combination is what I would also recommend to anyone wanting a reliable older driver (smog inspections permitting).
Can do…
I really fancy the originality that old Mercury.
And I do love the post, and will admit to great covetousness of your ability to do this stuff. I can do it only in my head, where, admittedly, I do it better than you. (Don’t we all?)
Thankyou for the effort in putting this up here, Mr TB.
TBM3fan, I’m assuming you’re really into this particular warbird?
That’s right because this is the one I have half way restore for display condition. Still need to finish the interior, I have acquired everything that belongs inside, but first the hydraulic system needs to be resealed so it can be operated manually.
Before in 1999
Exterior finished but still need to make bomb bay doors. They were removed and discarded when the plane became a fire bomber in the early ’60s.
A nice example of a big Mercury when they still had some personality of their own. I always liked cars that were a bit of a step-up from the base. Mercury, Pontiac, Olds, DeSoto. All gone. What a shame.