On my first trip to Las Vegas, Nevada three years ago, I wasn’t prepared for either the wonderful, sensory excesses I was about to experience, or for the random car sighting that were going to leave me scrambling for my camera’s lens cap in split-second moments. In the three annual trips I’ve made to Vegas, it has proven to be quite the place for spotting unusual cars that range from exotic, rare, or expensive to barely-rolling heaps that look like they just barely squeaked past safety inspection. It’s that middle ground of Vegas’ slightly dirty, old Americana that intrigues me the most, both as an auto enthusiast and as a photographer. Without further ado, I present some of my more interesting finds, and the context in which they were discovered.
Within hours of checking into my hotel room on that first trip and convening with friends staying on another floor, I looked out the window at the property’s entry drive and saw this ’77 Chevy El Camino…and knew instantly that my first Vegas experience was going to be awesome. The Elky’s two-tone gold and beige paint scheme was the automotive equivalent of a terrycloth track suit – in the best way. Even from all the way up in our hotel room, using the zoom on my camera’s viewer, it was clear this rolling centaur was riding on the ubiquitous Chevy Rallies. Shortly thereafter, I was done hanging out…I was ready to explore.
For me, the downtown area trumps the more popular stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard known as “The Strip”. It has been said of me that I’m an old soul (which is perceptive), and there’s something about all the classic casinos, hotels, signs and properties around Fremont Street and the surrounding areas that speaks more to me than the opulence of, say, The Bellagio or Caesar’s Palace (though both of those places are indeed something to behold). So much can change on the Strip from year to year, with established properties closing, being demolished, and being replaced with newer construction. Downtown, however, has seemed to maintain a fair amount of consistency over the past several years. One of my favorite things is to wander off the beaten path with my Canon (and innate vigilance) and see what non-touristy Las Vegas looks like.
It was on one such walk that I found this ’73 Chevrolet Chevelle Colonnade sedan with Missouri plates outside a dive apartment hotel. There has got to be a story there. Patina aside, the body was fairly straight and the tires were all full of air. Even the back bumper looks fairly intact. Instead of writing a subplot, I’ll let you use your imagination as to how this round-taillight Chevelle from Missouri ended up at the “Garden of Eden”. (Coincidentally, the pot-metal dealership sign on the trunklid reads “John Falb & Sons, Elgin, IA”. A quick internet search seems to indicate they’re no longer in business.)
Further west on Fremont, there’s a string of motels which all have a decidedly 1950’s – 60’s flavor. Many of these mid-century motor lodges have signs in unique, asymmetrical shapes with exuberant lettering, some in neon, to match their “Googie”-era architecture. It was in this setting that I spotted this 1966 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Holiday hardtop coupe. What struck me was just how much like a Cutlass it looked, and also how much proverbial junk was in the trunk. That is a looooooong rear overhang.
Some of my favorite casinos in the downtown area (Binion’s, El Cortez, the Golden Gate) have an old, grizzled, classic aura about them that makes me feel like an unofficial sixth member of the Rat Pack when I’m simply walking through the gaming floor. I can sense history in the very air inside places like these, with old carpeting, wood, vinyl, lights, and baked-in cigar smoke telling the story someone’s simultaneous best-day and worst-day ever.
One of my favorite things is to play video poker at the bar, which has often lead to interesting conversations with either a bartender or a person sitting next to me. Many of these verbal exchanges have left a lasting impression of me, with some these individuals’ stories etched in my memory – some of them equal parts comedy and tragedy. Everyone has a story of how they came to Las Vegas to visit or live. I enjoy talking with people and also casually conducting my own brand of sociological “research” more than actually gambling.
This ’62 Cadillac Fleetwood limousine parked under the glittering entryway canopy of Binion’s pretty much sums up everything I find fascinating about Las Vegas, the downtown area near Fremont Street, and American excess. More old Cadillacs limousines should have horns like these. (Just my opinion.) The corned beef sandwich at the deli at Binion’s is legendary for good reason, and I always make it a point to get one when I’m there, no matter how recently I may have eaten breakfast. And I always try to get the complimentary house photo of me standing in front of the Binion’s Million, because that is pretty much the only chance this kid from Flint, Michigan has ever gotten to be that close to that much cash.
While leaving Fremont Street in the central area of downtown (collectively known as the “Fremont Street Experience”), I spotted this ’64 Chevy Impala SS hardtop coupe. It may be cliche, but my first thought was, “Elvis!” According to my research, Elvis Presley never owned one of these, but if he actually is alive and kicking in Las Vegas, I’d bet (no pun intended) he’d be rolling in something like this low-key classic over something obvious and ostentatious like a Maybach. After all, if he faked his own death to elude the public eye, the point would be to not call attention to himself. But he is still Elvis – no modern car would ever do.
Speaking of Elvis, on display at Binion’s is a car he actually did own: a ’77 Lincoln Continental Mark V which is said to have been his very last new car purchase. One could say this is definitely an Elvis-circa-’77-sized car, though it is still a very good-looking one – your author’s favorite of the big personal luxury coupes of its era.
On the opposite end of the fuel-efficiency spectrum, how about a fourth-generation Honda Civic? This generation remains my favorite. Sadly, the venerable Riviera Hotel and Casino in the background closed its doors earlier this year after having been open for sixty years. I always make it a point to try to experience another piece of old Vegas before it crumbles to dust and, sadly, I never made it to the Riv.
This SJ-platform Jeep Grand Wagoneer actually looked to me like a modern interpretation of a covered wagon from the early, pioneer days of western expansion. All that wood paneling only added to its hickory-smoked flavor. Tally-ho!
One of my most favorite Las Vegas discoveries last year was Huntridge Pharmacy and Liquors, over by the old Huntridge Theater. Walking into the bar was like being instantly transported into an outtake scene from “Pulp Fiction”. Red, cloisonne wallpaper, wood paneling, a host of old beers signs lining the walls, and a curvilinear bar all made an impression through a palpable haze of cigarette smoke, whiskey vapor and deferred dreams.
It was outside of this establishment that I saw the first, (presumably) running Daihatsu Charade I’ve seen in over fifteen years. I have ridden in exactly one Charade, thanks to my college friend, Leah, who would probably also really dig the Huntridge.
I spotted this 1968 – ’69 Dodge D100 outside of Atomic Liquors. The Atomic is another Vegas stalwart watering hole that had reopened in recent years under new management after having been closed for a time during renovation. The Atomic goes back to the 1950’s, and is now touted as the oldest freestanding bar in Las Vegas. It’s another “must stop” when I’m back in these parts. As for the Dodge, I wonder from which state this old soldier originated. Its appearance had the wear and honesty of a pair of denim overalls. It was definitely (and awesomely) just a little “country”. I would so drive this.
Las Vegas seems to be a very car-centric town, which is another reason I find this city so magical. There are so many large-scaled, brightly-lit signs announcing business all up and down the Strip. Some of these beacons are more interesting than the establishments they advertise. I spotted the sign for the Somerset Shopping Center from my hotel room and had to walk that way to get a few shots. This strip mall itself appears to be mostly vacated, but that sign is really something to behold at night, with chasing bulb and neon lights providing a glorious illusion of motion.
Sometimes a car itself becomes an advertisement, as shown by this tattoo parlor. Can a CC reader help me identify this mildly-customized machine? It looks like a FoMoCo product, like a ’52 Ford, but I can’t quite nail this one. [Update: This car has been correctly, and almost immediately, identified by CC reader GGH06 as a ’54 Chevy, and seconded by James Slick and ArBee. Thanks, guys – you’re rock stars. – JD]
It won’t be until early next year that I’ll have a chance to explore more of the old Americana that Las Vegas has to offer, but I can’t wait to return. I look forward to experiencing more cars, places, food and games, more good times with my crew, and also having more conversations with interesting strangers. As Sammy Davis, Jr. once sang, I’ve got a lot of living to do, and I can’t wait to do more of it in Henderson County, Nevada.
All photos are as taken by the author from between September 2012 and September 2014.
Thanks, some evocative photos there.
The one in front of the tattoo parlor looks to be a ’54 Chevy.
Lotta detail missing, But is does look like a ’53/’54 Chevy to me too.
1954 Chevrolet. It is Identified by the oval parking lights; the 1953’s were round. The tail lights differed too, but we can’t see that end of the car.
GGH06, James Slick, G. Poon and ArBee, thanks so much for identifying this car. I’ll have to fix the tags on my Flickr page. Very much appreciated!
The Dodge is a ’67 I think. No side marker lights.
67 Dodge PU had different grille/markers. This is 68-69 grille at least.
The ’67 grille was definitely different. Pictures of ’68s and ’69s I found on-line didn’t appear to have side-market lights either. Admittedly, I’m not being very familiar with Dodge trucks of this era.
It is definitely not a ’67 grill, ’68 or ’69. Either someone has put a newer grill on an older pickup or fenders from an older one on a newer one. I have had 3 of this body series and loved them. The hood opens straight up and down like a jeep, the flat inner fenders are great tool and parts holders when working on them, engine bay is huge(no problem with clearance) and when pulling the engine you don’t have to take the hood off
Wow – you are absolutely right… I just noticed the upper contours of the hood are those of a ’67. It seems I learn something new every day at CC!
If “every car has a story” how fitting is it that these fine CC spottings occurred in the city with a million stories. If only those old walls, and these CC’s, could talk. JD, I look forward to your next installment.
Loved this piece. And yes, that car in the last photo is a ’54 Chevrolet.
Love these shots. Only in a desert climate can these old soldiers still look this good.
Great write-up Joseph, I can feel the “ambiance”! I totally get the old Vegas “vibe”, especially with those 50’s and 60’s rides!
I visited Las Vegas 2 or 3 times in the early 80s and felt the same way about it. A BIL worked at one of the bars in the Fremont area, and while I thought it was “quaint” I still preferred it to “The Strip”.
(There was a Robert Ulrich detective series set in Las Vegas that really catches the “tone” of old (er) Las Vegas.)
My sister used to work at a smallish casino in a strip mall like the one pictured. She was a cocktail waitress/book keeper. She had ambitions of becoming a pit boss and one day got her chance to “audition” for the job. She was doing okay until a situation arose and she had to take over for the dealer at the poker table. After dealing the cards, she realized she had no idea what beat what at poker.
Thanks for visiting. Come back any time! I’ll even take you for a ride in my “vintage” 1990 Acura. (Hey, it’s old enough to sport “classic vehicle” plates, it must be vintage, right?)
That sounds awesome, Eggsalad, thanks! 25 years old definitely counts! I’ll probably always like the early Acuras the best simply because I was in high school when the brand was introduced. It was a pretty big deal.
The ultimate cars and ‘Vagas book is Hunter S Thompson’s novel Fear and Lothing in Las Vegas.
Thanks, all for taking the time to read my musings and view the accompanying pictures. I’m definitely going through Vegas withdrawals right now, as I would just now be returning from my annual trip around this time of year. Tradition has been broken, but I hope to be back there some time during 1Q 2016.
Both photos and writing are very evocative, and make me want to visit (I’ve never been). Thanks for an offbeat travelogue of sorts! That Caddy limo with the horns does seem perfect, doesn’t it?
Thanks, Chris, and I’ll say this. I fall on the introverted side (“practiced extrovert”), and I wasn’t sure how much I’d enjoy Vegas’ excesses on that first trip. *Loved it*. It’s now in my top three vacation destinations.
So now, less than five years later, you can go up on a steep hill in Las Vegas and look West, and with the right kind of eyes you can almost see the high-water mark—that place where the wave finally broke and rolled back.”
Love that quote by HST
I caught this old Caddy in the parking garage of the Station Casino just west of the Strip, where our license plate collectors’ convention was being held.
I think it’s a 75. It was there every day, but not always in the same handicapped spot. Straight and rust-free, but with a quite eroded vinyl top, it’s providing daily transportation to someone.
PFSM, this car exemplifies the Vegas vibe I try to experience. Worn around the edges but still a beauty, larger-than-life, and so intriguing. Thanks for posting these shots!
” I always make it a point to try to experience another piece of old Vegas before it crumbles to dust…”
Resonates. First place I ever stayed in Vegas was the Westward Ho (gone); first place Mrs. F-85 and I ever stayed together was the Stardust (gone); first place we ever gambled was the New Frontier (gone); first lounge act — a topnotch Elvis act (Jimmy L and the Naturals, now disbanded) was at the Riviera (shuttered); got married at the Key Largo (gone)…etc., etc.
Agree with your view that downtown is the way to try to recapture what portions of the strip used to be.
Agreed that Downtown Vegas is better than the grimy strip .
It seems more folks prefer the strip though , more’s the pity .
My Lady loves Vegas so we used to go there several times a year , I don’t much like pissing away my hard earned Dollars so I hied my self off to the older neighborhoods and outlying junkyards where there’s still a fair amount of older vehicles being used as daily drivers .
Gotta watch the parking though ! L.V.P.D. are daemons about towing and impounding , few ever can afford to spring old Betsy so the junkyards are always full of worthless beaters .
-Nate
I always upvote Nevada! Great piece, and resonates with me quite profoundly. More Nevada porn here:
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/stories/how-my-dream-car-killed-my-dream-car/
And here:
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/a-second-chance-christmas-on-the-loneliest-highway-in-america/
Mike, much respect to you – fantastic story telling. Thanks for linking these.
Very nice write-up. I have lived in Vegas since December 2012 and you gave me some suggestions of interesting places to check out.
Also, here is my 1979 MGB at The Riviera on the day before it closed.
Brett H., thanks, and that is a sweet shot of a sweet car. You should be so glad you got this one. Always liked all the neon at the Riv when getting from the Strip to Circus Circus or riding the bus downtown.
Nice Brett ;
I assume you like to take it through the canyons….
Also you’ve certainly replaced the timing chain & gears to get the hidden power ? .
-Nate
Thank you. I have replaced the camshaft with a mild street cam, but it’s pretty much stock. My dad bought the car new, cracked the head in 1989 and parked it for 26 years before giving it to me. I rebuilt the engine, but the car is not quite reliable enough yet for me to feel comfortable taking it much more than AAA distance from my house. I look forward to the days when I can take it on runs through the canyons. Also, the right front fender is damaged from when my step-mom found a Triumph TR-6 back in 1988.
The stock cam was O.K. considering the rest of the engine and car ~ the sprocket thing is/was a de-tuning for emissions : in 1975 when BMC changed to a cheaper (and *MUCH* faster wearing) single row cam chain , they also retarded the woodruff key’s slot by 4° , this made it run cleaner but also took what little ‘ zip ‘ it had away .
Simply replacing these items gives you a large boost in tractable power .
Now you’ve improved the cam , time to get a nice pair of S.U. HS4 carbies on it , balance them properly then _LEAVE_THEM_ALONE_ as carbies never go out of adjustment , fool just toch them constantly and screw them up .
It’s a dead simple car , I can’t imagine not running it hard and fast , Nevada has some wonderful back roads full of canyons etc. , you’d be shocked to see the shitboxes I hustle through them , no worries if you take any sort of basic care of it and dead easy to fix if it goes astray .
-Nate
Great story. Last time I was in Vegas was around ’90. 60’s with parents, ’70’s with buddies, ’80’s with friend who’s Mother lived in the downtown area and spent her golden years gambling with her similar aged boyfriend who lived in Vegas since the early ’60’s. He swore the older run down establishments were the ones that pay off. He knew what he was doing and they lived off their winnings, while we were there saw his Mom win $5000.00. He worked at several Vegas hot spots and knew and met many of the rock acts, lounge stars and actors of the ’60’s and ’70’s. He had some great stories.
I spent many hours downtown and on the strip. I hung out at “The Centerfold” at Las Vegas Blvd and Sahara from June of 1975 until not too long after it was “upgraded” to the “Jolley Trolley. It just wasn’t as fun as it was when it was a “dive”. The best memories I have is when one of the security guards broke some asshole’s jaw when he slugged the 75 year old poker dealer, and I can never forget the look of total mortification on one of the dancer’s faces, right after she took her bra off, when she looked right at me and recognized me as her next door neighbor. ” I haff bibee and neet mooney!” as she said later that night, in her horrible broken Romanian (?) accented English. I moved soon after that and didn’t see her or the “Bibee” ( who would wail like some sort of demon from a bad horror movie) again until over 5 years later, her English had improved 1000% and the “Bibee”was about 6 and seemed perfectly normal, and asked me about my dog that I had back when they lived next door to me. I told him he had died a couple years before, and he seemed sad about it. I went to the Huntridge Pharmacy a few times, and the other drugstore with the snack bar inside of it at Oakey and LVBD a bunch of times. It was a freakshow, and it was the epicenter of drunk driving, even worse than the UNLV area. In 1979, I started working at the “Nevada Hotel” until 1982. That place was a circus. I met many celebrities over the seven years I lived there, and even nearly got into a fistfight with one. He’s very old now, and when he dies, I will post a story about it here, as it does concern cars, sort of.
NRD515, thanks for posting that – the Vegas you described is exactly the kind of Vegas I have been unable to read about. As for that other pharmacy at LVBD and Oakey, I did walk past the White Cross Market but never made it inside. From the outside, it looks like it has remained unchanged for years. It was a great juxtaposition to be in front of the White Cross with the Stratosphere towering in the background. Another place I wish I could have experienced is the Landmark. A shame it never made money and was demolished.
Looking forward to that story
Great selection. That 62 Caddy under lights says everything I know about Vegas.