I had the unique privilege to spend one night in one of the ten oldest hotel rooms in all of Las Vegas during last month’s vacation. I was already excited to be staying in the oldest standing property in that city, with the Golden Gate Hotel & Casino having opened in 1906 as the Hotel Nevada. It had the first working telephone in Las Vegas; The phone number was “1”. When I was handed the key card to my room, and having reverence for history and things used and enjoyed by people who had lived years before me, I didn’t know I was going to be in one of the “Original 10” rooms. When I saw the placard on the hallway corridor, I paused to reflect on just what a vastly different Las Vegas, country, and world it had become in the one hundred sixteen years since the first occupants of my room had spent the night there.
I honestly had no idea what to expect when I opened the door, except for that I knew the room was going to be much smaller than the spacious footprint that is now the standard for even basic lodging. My hotel rooms during last month’s business trip to Nebraska and Iowa were far nicer than any type of overnight stays I might have experienced as a boy while traveling with my family of origin. In fact, four or five of us might have shared half the square footage I had all to myself as I prepared for last month’s insurance meetings and presentations.
That original room at the Golden Gate was tiny. There was a raised bathroom area near the door to the hall with a step that was marked in yellow-and-black caution tape. A flat-screen television of a decent size was mounted, incongruously, on a wall that had probably held a painting no larger than the screen of an average-sized tube TV from the ’70s. A small closet held just enough room for anything I wanted to hang up, with not even enough space to unfold the luggage rack to keep my suitcase out of sight. There was no wasted space in that room, for sure. Still, I was enthralled with the idea that in the middle of this giant, desert-oasis metropolis, which has been drawing tourists, money, and top-notch entertainment for many decades, I was then sitting in one of the first ten hotel rooms available in the entire city. Las Vegas has a lot of history, and even if this room wasn’t ritzy, I was now experiencing even more LV lore at no extra charge.
I knew I would be in for a rough night around maybe six in the early evening when loud music from the speakers from the nearby Fremont Street Experience attraction was almost rattling the ancient, single-pane glass windows in my room. I had hoped my thirty decibel-rated earplugs purchased from a downtown Walgreens would be enough to keep the music out of my head long enough for me to get unconscious, but it was all for naught. After one night of lying in bed in the tiny, historic room with my eyes closed and fifteen-year-old hit songs dancing through my semi-conscious thoughts, I asked for a different room the next morning, and that was that. Hotel staff accommodated me with a smile and a minimum of any extra effort on my part.
When I returned home from O’Hare International Airport to my north Chicago neighborhood of Edgewater, there was a prewar Plymouth street-parked a few blocks from where I live, which looks like a ’39 from some of the decorative, aftermarket pinstriping. From the picture above, it also appears to have an aftermarket, round-headlight conversion from the original, rectangular lights with which the ’39 Plymouth had been equipped from the factory. It looked like a recent purchase, as it still had plates on it advertising the Mecum Classic Car Auctions. The sight of it floored me with almost the same kind of instinctive reaction I had upon learning I was going to be staying in a century-old room at the Golden Gate. One week later, this car was still parked at the same intersection, though in a different spot and between a Corolla and an SUV or something, with a bunch of fallen autumn leaves on it.
I fell in love with that old Plymouth almost as soon as I saw it and I really hope this is a temporary parking solution, as another Chicago winter is around the corner. I wonder about the situation under which it has found itself parked on the street in my neighborhood like so many common cars that get scratched and dented by the most random things. Undoubtedly, its owner or temporary custodian is a history buff like me, because one doesn’t buy a 1939 Plymouth with the expectation that it will make them seem cool to their peers. Someone bid on and won this car, and was obviously drawn to its late-1930s swagger, probably in a way not dissimilar to how I had geeked out about my hotel room. But, here’s the thing…
This is when a vehicle like a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Touring makes all the sense in the world. I’d like to state that I’m not being an apologist at all with the following, but I’ll go on record as saying that I’ve always liked the PT Cruiser, and especially the convertible. This has absolutely nothing to do with the late-’90s popularity boom of prewar things like swing jazz and dancing that I remember from my mid-20s during my first taste of being an independent, young professional. I genuinely liked the PT Cruiser’s style that was a throwback to a much earlier era.
So many of us can find something to justify liking about muscle cars of the ’60s or seminal specialty cars of the ’50s, like Thunderbirds or the Studebaker Loewy coupes. The style of the PT Cruiser took it back even further, skipping over our parents’ Boomer generation and straight to grandma’s and grandpa’s gravel driveway. The genius of it was that it combined a modern drivetrain, comfort, convenience, and safety features with the kind of boutique, retro style that fascinated so many of us at the time. Many people tend to select adversely against things their parents liked, regardless of the inherent worth or goodness of said things. I’m sure there are more than a few people who dislike even the first Ford Mustang just because a parent they also dislike had liked them. There’s no danger of that with a car with the style of the PT Cruiser for most people in my age group.
Someone was taken with the the qualities of this ’39 Plymouth enough to buy it, and then drive and park it in the neighborhood. I wonder if the honeymoon phase of having purchased a car from this era is still fresh, or if it might have started to fade… much like I realized the single-pane windows and drapes in my “Original Ten” hotel room facing Main Street were not going to do much to keep the light and noise out and facilitate my proper vacation sleep. You love ’30s style and really want to express yourself with a car that fits your personality and the retro-reputation and brand you’ve taken time and care to build for yourself? Why not get a nicely kept, maintained, and serviced PT Cruiser convertible? This black example is powered by the optional, turbocharged version of the 2.4 liter four-cylinder engine, which was good for 30 horsepower over the base engine’s 150 hp figure.
Without going into an in-depth analysis of the ’06 Limited since this is more of an opinion piece, I’ll cite that Edmunds, for one, liked these cars, citing the spacious cabin that was capable of holding four adults, acceleration of the non-base engine-equipped cars, safety features which included available ABS and side airbags, and great marks for occupant protection in crash testing. The ’39 Plymouth may be bigger on the outside, but you and I both know you’d rather be in the PT Cruiser should it come into contact with something at any sort of moderate speed, or faster.
This is just like I was finally able to get some sleep once the good people at the Golden Gate had found me a different, quieter room in a more modern (read: slightly less ancient) part of the hotel. Don’t get me wrong. I’ve stayed at the GG before, and I’d gladly book accommodations there again. For someone like me who regularly draws inspiration from the past, which influences my choices in music, home decor, and personal attire, there’s just so much magic to be found in a place like the Golden Gate. I just hope that if I’m ever presented with an opportunity to realize history in the form of a major purchase, instead of buying something my grandpa would have actually owned, I’ll be able to find a good compromise in the form of something like a PT Cruiser that allows me, with a little imagination, the ability to enjoy the most maximized combination of new and old worlds.
All photos were taken in Las Vegas, Nevada and Chicago, Illinois in October 2022.
“The phone number was “1”…”
Thankfully my sip of coffee was mostly swallowed when I came to that line of your post.
This reminds me of the Gary Larsen cartoons that so often focused on the trials and tribulations of cave men and women still living in his rich imagination (sample below). Or Mel Brooks’ “Blazing Saddles” Howard Johnson’s first ice cream store with “1 flavor”.
PT Cruisers
In my COAL series I found the first gen 5-speed PT Cruiser (wagon – not convertible) to be an almost perfect car for me during the difficult early 2000s. The 5-speed manual transmission made the PT fun to drive and a good high speed, low rpm cruiser. Sadly the PT was cheapened during the Daimler-led second gen revamp and dulled some of the positive aspects of this little, tall wagon.
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/cars-of-a-lifetime/coal-2002-chrysler-pt-cruiser-we-get-a-good-one-from-chrysler/
This, in turn, made me laugh. True story about the phone number, though! https://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/63988
I’m always really happy when entries from your excellent COAL series are rerun or referenced.
A nice compare and contrast. I appreciate both cars.
1938 and 1939 Mopars are my favorites, although to my eyes the color choice and painted bumpers do that one no favors. My ideal 39 would be stock, battleship grey and nice chrome.
Having owned a convertible (Mustang) for the past few years I understand the benefit, so I vote thumbs up to the PT Cruiser ragtop, even if the styling reminds me of a bucket with 4 seats in it. A fun unpretentious car.
As for Las Vegas, well for me it’s only a starting point for Zion, Bryce, and the Grand Canyon.
Grand Canyon and Hoover Dam are always on my list of places to figure out how to plan for when I’m back out west.
I honestly had no idea that I was looking at a Plymouth when I first approached it, until I saw the badges on it. I thought it had great style. I might have guessed it was a Mercury from the frontal styling and being unfamiliar with Mopars of that era. It really is a handsome car.
Interesting conjecture .
I too like the PT Cruiser’s overall looks and vibe, my buddy bought a white one, the closed version and still has it in spite of the slushbox having given up and co$ting more than the car is worth to get it fixed .
I’m not a Rag Top fan my self .
In the 1970’s I had a 1939 Dodge four door sedan, it looked quite similar to this 1939 Plymouth .
I hope the new owner of this white Hot Rod loves and enjoys it .
-Nate
Any PT cruiser is a reare sight now round here they have all fallen off the road it seems but I prefer the 39 Plymouth.
Saw a “running PT” the week after Labor day. Was not meticulous, not falling into ruin.
Just looked appropriately , “surviving”. (was gold).
Someone in my town has just got a nice black one. Before that. I hadn’t seen none for a few years.
I never see the Neon, but there are a couple of these PT Cruisers running around and they are in nice condition. Surely some people like them. Perfect for those who want a small car and still want to haul some stuff around.
I totally agree with your last sentence. Not only do these cars have great style (if one is into that look), they also have a high utility factor, at least in wagon form.
Thanks again for visiting, Joseph. Perhaps one day I can catch up with you while you are here.
As for the PT convertible, it served a purpose. I’m fairly sure it was the cheapest 4-seat convertible in its era, and I’m guessing it sold well to rental car companies, who probably made a killing on them at $89/day. Regular folks, especially older ones who maybe couldn’t get into something like a Miata, also loved them. But as a vehicle with economy car bones, it was never destined for long-term use.
Thanks, Evan. And to your point, it’s always so easy for me to forget the economy car underpinnings of the PT Cruiser. I did like the Neon (especially in its first iteration, and when it first came out), but in my mind, there’s just such a chasm between the Neon and the first PT Cruiser.
The Edmunds report I read, or something else I looked at while I was putting this together, said one could expect to get up to 150,000 miles out of one of these, which while less than a Honda or a Toyota small car, still sounds like a decent number to me.
You make me think that old stuff was designed for a different time. Your old hotel room was not designed for an era with constant loud music pounding into the night, but a quiet world with the occasional raised voice or horse whinny. The 39 Plymouth was designed for a time when there were not as many cars on the road and for much slower traffic.
The lesson is that for a good nights sleep in the loud modern Vegas, you need a room designed for that. And if you want to enjoy retro lines on a sweltering day or get into an accident, the PT is a far better choice than its inspiration.
All that said, I wonder about the drivetrain in that 39. The modern wheels and dual exhaust suggests that this old Plymouth is rocking more cylinders than it came with.
This is an excellent distillation of my essay in like 50 words or less. You got it, and thank you.
My essays, long or short, usually run maybe 2 or 3 weeks after I finish them. I wrote this one maybe two and a half weeks ago, and it occurred to me only *this morning* to look up this specific car online.
Indeed, it has a modern 318 (they kept it Chrysler) and other features like AC, power brakes and seats, etc. It’s a restomod (done really well, IMO), and it looks like it would scoot. I really hope its owner appreciates just what a cool car this is and will be able to treat it as such.
Thanks for the reminder that the history of Las Vegas still exists downtown. While not really my kind of place, I have visited Sin City 15-20 times, always for an annual industry conference. Most of my time has been spent on The Strip or at the LV Convention Center, so the occasional dinner downtown was a welcome respite from the over-the-top latest and greatest that Vegas is known for. Wow – the Golden Gate Hotel – over 100 years old – I would have never guessed!
I have always liked the PT Cruiser, as a practical fun-to-drive vehicle, though I prefer the wagon to the convertible. That 1939 Plymouth is growing on me, too, though I’d rather see it in a darker color and with a chrome bumper. I hope it’s soon rescued from the mean streets of Chicago and spends the winter in an appropriate shelter.
I too enjoy the occasional old Vegas visit .
The ’39 Plymouth or Dodge coupes are very beautiful and fantastic drivers to boot .
None left because they were sturdy, inexpensive cars to use and abuse .
An old high school chum had one languishing in the mod to late 1970’s when I had my sedan, IIRC he wanted $400 for it running, beater condition _ I wished mightily I’d had the $ to buy it .
-Nate
Downtown Vegas is definitely my jam. I do enjoy looking at some of the spectacle of The Strip, but on my first Las Vegas stay 10 years ago, when my friends and I were staying on the Strip, I took a solo journey to downtown… and discovered exactly the Vegas I was hoping to find. Love at first sight.
I also want to see this car moved from being street-parked. I will weep if I ever see something bad happen to it.
Terrific juxtaposition. And sincere props for being able to tolerate Las Vegas. The place makes me ashamed to be a human being and an American; it sends me all but cowering under my desk, rocking back and forth and sucking my thumb.
Sure, but it’s a great place to make a living – if one is employed in an industry where the most money can be had here, 😐
No doubt. Me, I wouldn’t be able to afford that money.
Interesting contrast between what I guess could be called “Nostalgic Retro” (PT Cruiser) and I guess what could be called “Authentic Retro” (your hotel room).
In all honesty, I thought the PT Cruiser was silly when it first came out, but it’s grown on me. I definitely see the appeal now.
It’s interesting, though, when we come across something old that still functions well in a modern setting. Our current house is one such example – it’s celebrating its 100th birthday this coming year, has never been modified or expanded, and has a floorplan that’s more flexible and useful than any place I’ve ever lived in. Sure, there are some compromises (like the narrow, steep stairs), but on the whole it’s stood the test of time amazingly well.
As an insurance underwriter (including for homes) by trade, I have such respect for architects and builders of older houses and structures. Just how everything was so thoroughly (over)engineered and designed, and actually built to last from solid materials. I love that you appreciate your century-old dwelling and have found ways to keep loving it despite things like the stairwells not being what one might expect in a modern house.
Same deal with my 1,158 square foot 1923 Bungalow ~ it’s *just* the right size and IMO is well lain out .
-Nate
Nice article!
I’ve never been to Vegas, despite living relatively near in Phoenix for many years. As a personal choice, I don’t gamble at all and the whole idea of the place holds no appeal, but I really should go some time just to see what all the hubbub is about and see if I am actually correct in disliking it from afar.
Perhaps I’m not, because I think of it as a city that places no value in historical architecture. Tear down the old, build something bigger and bolder over top of it. So, I’m impressed that the original hotel still exists, held over from a time well before the city became the entertainment destination it is now. Does LV have any other significant industries not tied to gaming/entertainment/conventions/lodging or catering to those who work in those?
My aunt and uncle have a PT cruiser convertible very similar to this, non-turbo variety, I think. I’ve never driven it but have ridden in it a number of times. Seems pretty nice, but not very exciting beyond being a convertible. A friend of mine has a 4-door which I’ve also ridden in several times. That one seems totally unappealing, probably because the AC sucks and the car is well, well used. Still runs, so it has that going for it even though he has had to make some expensive repairs. This is a 50+ year old guy who has had 3 primary cars in his life including high school. He doesn’t like change!
I’m impressed how similar the 39 and 06 are in the proportions of their rear halves. Even the front halves are more similar than you could expect for the 06 being FWD with a wide, large windshield and the 39 obviously not FWD and having a tiny, narrow windshield.
I really hope the 39 finds shelter soon. The owner was surely taken with the retro style of the pre-war cruiser, though it has significantly modernized mechanicals. I found the car on Mecum’s website. It was sold at the Chicago auction in October (for $18,700) and has a 318 V8, auto, AC, power disc brakes and power seats. Maybe they are using it as a daily driver? It wasn’t any more expensive that a good late model used car. Who knows.
Thanks, Jon! I’m not a gambler, though I did net $15 on a slot machine and quit there, almost immediately. 🙂
You make some great observations about the proportions and look of both cars. The biggest difference to me is in the proportion of the length of the front to the rest of the car – the Plymouth definitely has more up front, which might lead some to falsely presume additional safety with more metal up front than on something like the PT Cruiser.
Funny thing you mention the tiny windshields Jon ;
1939 was the first year for a split one and Chry-Co pushed it hard as a safety up grade ” AIRPLANE VISION !” .
-Nate
In my years of observing the owners of the PT Cruiser convertibles, I noticed that most of them were driven by middle-aged and elderly women. OOPS, Chrysler you missed on this one. One elderly gal even told me how much she loves the car. It was a dream come true for her.
Everybody seems to give the VW Cabriolet a free pass, and I see it driven by the same demographic a lot of the time. For the record, I like both the Cabriolet / Cabrio and the PT Cruiser.
Chrysler may have missed their original target, early Millennials, but they struck it rich with the Boomers. I remember about ten years ago, after a local 60ish year-old woman passed away suddenly she made her way to the cemetery sticking out the back of her cherished Inca Gold Pearlcoat PT Cruiser.
Joseph, props to you for enduring even one night in a room facing the “Fremont Street Experience”. Having just returned from a weekend in Nashville, TN (Las Vegas for those who haven’t quite yet figured out where Nevada is 😉 ) and seeing/experiencing their equivalent (Broadway), I can sympathize.
The question is why hasn’t the Golden Gate figured out how to install double-pane glass and noise-proofing for its vintage rooms? This is what comes to mind when looking at the PT Cruiser, and the 1939 Plymouth. As JPC notes, I’m pretty sure that ’39 is not exactly original under the skin. And therein lies my point. There’s surely something useful about leaving leaving a car “looking” original, but making certain substantive modifications, when the objective is for it to exist in the modern world. That’s pretty much what Chrysler did with the PT…to (kind of arguably, but not really according to many PT Cruiser fans) good effect.
I’m not a fan of restomods in general; but if I had to drive a 90 year old car on a regular basis, I’d probably be singing a different tune. Just like how I’d probably not want to actually spend the night in a 120 year old hotel room overlooking 21st Century noise.
Excellent, thought-provoking article as always!
My ride is 13 years on. I could pass for a “90 year old” one on many days.
Thanks, Jeff! To be clear, my room wasn’t facing Fremont (it was facing Main), but it was close enough to Fremont that the speakers were boomin’ and bangin’.
I know from having spent a significant amount of time in Florida that in warm climates, and for older construction, single-pane glass is pretty much the norm.
The ’39 Plymouth is definitely a restomod, from the original listing I found this morning. I wouldn’t have any concerns with this one being able to get out of its own way, but I might consider it too cool and too hard to get parts for to make it my daily.
Lol on FSE…the kid and I were there in August and man did it trigger her ADHD. But we had a great time overall, taking in a couple of shows and road trips to the Hoover Dam and Grand Canyon West rim.
I recall when the PT Cruiser came out there were dealer mark-ups, long waits, etc (sound familiar?). I always thought their style was attractive (especially the convertibles), and the few I drove as rentals (non-turbos) seemed competent enough. Chevy’s copy-cat HHR was laughable.
Of that era of ‘retro’ (VW Beetle, Mini Cooper, T-Bird, HHR), to me the PT had the most allure. I think the updated design took away from the original; I feel the opposite about the Beetle…the last restyle greatly improved it’s looks and toned down the goofy aspect.
Great writing as always, Joseph. You always bring a unique perspective and distinctive voice.
I really appreciate your good words – thank you so much. Part of the allure of the PT Cruiser for me, as a standout in that crop of cars (all of which I like), was that it seemed to hit the sweet spot of being well executed *and* priced within range of most people, once the initial fervor had worn off. A nice family at a church I used to attend had mentioned, when I had asked them, how they had to wait for quite a while before taking delivery of theirs. They seemed to really like it, and it was a sharp car that was sized perfectly for their small family..
And yes – the FSE is definitely multisensory everything!
I was an approved accommodations auditor for many years. So I am very familiar with historic accommodations. Hotel rooms were not for more than sleeping and intimacy. Historic hotels had public rooms for you to spend time in. Most guests would read, smoke, play cards, and socialize in these public rooms, right up to the moment they headed off to bed. Guests used the elaborated rest rooms in these public areas, not expect their own in their bedroom. Few today use these public rooms, and instead hide in their rooms, watching TV.
As to soundproofing, that wasn’t a factor. Walls were plaster and lathe and rarely had much soundproofing. A plus for the honeymooners were the individual huts that kept any bouncing bedsprings from being heard through a wall. In hotels, most guests weren’t using their rooms, so a couple usually romanced earlier in the evening than when all the guests retired.
It’s tough to sell a small hotel room. Today’s travelers don’t see them as just bedrooms, and they want a large room to live in. A smart hotel knows how to sell their public rooms along with their bedrooms as an overall package. They provide areas in their public rooms that permit some nooks. Good hotels have an ongoing calendar of events to keep guests in their public rooms, restaurants, bars and any other shops, gyms, pools and theaters.
I don’t have a favorite – there’s so many good ones. Hotel Mackinac, the Broadmoor, the Greenbriar, Hotel Colorado, Palmer House and the Drake, there’s great opportunities to enjoy historic accommodations.
As to the PT Crusier, I know of too many, now geriatric, owners who were nuts over those cars, and all I see when I see one today, is “Grandma!”.
Fascinating historical / industry perspective – thank you for this.
Nice write-up, Joe. I was following your adventures on FB and once I saw you had posted here, I knew I’d see more about that delicious ’39 Plymouth. When I was a young kid, I used to adore the cars of the late 1920’s through the early 1930’s, as many of the hot rods I experienced were built on those cars. As time goes on, I find myself with a real affinity for the cars of the later 1930’s. They seem like peak prewar cars, style- and utility-wise, without the bloat that was becoming apparent in the early 1940’s and really manifested itself postwar.
I was a fan of the PT Cruiser, having seen it’s evolution in the show cars that Chrysler released during the late 1990’s. It could have been (should have been) an alternate to the onslaught of small SUV/CUVs that were really ramping up at the time. I think the styling caught the retro wave that was prevalent at that time, disguising the uber-practical four door wagon body. I was ambivalent about the convertible, as I saw that as more of an Oma-mobile (Grandma car) than the original PT.
I really loved the Dream Cruise editions, as they had all of the custom touches built-in from the factory. But Daimler managed to suck all of the fun out of anything from USDM Chrysler Corporation. I found this out after renting a 2006-era PT for a weekend trip home to Northeast Ohio. It was cheapened considerably from the last 2001-era PT I had driven previously.
Maybe your next trip to Las Vegas will be a bit more peaceful, but it was pretty cool that you were able to experience a little bit of Las Vegas from 100+ years ago.