On a nice warm summer day when I should be working outside, I am typing away on the computer.
Doing so does allow one to refocus their otherwise addled brain. A certain carburetor sitting atop a Ford FE engine is where I should be directing my focus. Instead, I’m pondering engine swaps.
My ’63 Galaxie has developed a hard (next to impossible) to start problem when the engine is cold. There is spark and there is fuel – that leaves only the carburetor, a device whose internal workings possess a much greater mystery to me than does than the female reproductive system. I suppose I do have more experience with one than the other.
All this jaw-flapping does lead somewhere; it actually leads to this ’62 Galaxie.
This spring, I met our very own Tom Klockau in Hannibal, Missouri, for the annual Loafers Car Show. As I was driving up Route 19 between the little burgs of Perry and New London, I was behind this Galaxie. This car had me curious. Despite driving 70 mph (or so) on this two-lane road, I was not catching up with this Galaxie. Upon arriving at the interchange of Route 19 with US 61, the Galaxie had to wait for oncoming traffic, allowing me a better look. A single romp on the accelerator of the Galaxie indicated something was a bit different.
At the show, a quick peek under the hood explained it all. In place of the 292 or 352 V8 it likely had originally, somebody had worked some magic by installing a Ford 4.6 liter V8 from a late model Ford Crown Victoria. It even still has its four-speed automatic transmission. It’s a twist upon the Ecoboost Edsel.
I’m not ordinarily a fan of re-powering serviceable vehicles, but for all I know it may have been divorced from its engine many moons ago. It is far preferable to see a car repurposed than discarded.
During my futile attempts to diagnose a carburetor, the idea of such a swap is an intriguing thought. Yes, such a swap would require a myriad of other unique challenges but it still intrigues the idealistic part of my brain.
So here’s the question: What engineless car would you like to marry with what power train? There is a substantial penalty for using a Chevrolet 350 as your power source!
While I had the 1950 International L-170, I always thought swapping in a VW TDI such as the 90hp ALH code engine from my New Beetle would have been interesting. The hp would have been almost an exact match (89hp for the stock straight six). Torque might have been somewhat lacking, though.
I’ve actually done two swaps in the past – the 3.8l Buick into my ’71 Vega, and (sorry to say, but yes, it’s a SBC swap) a 5.7l four-bolt-main Chevy into my ’66 Tempest four door. Both worked out well.
Usually what folks think are carburettor problems are usually ignition related.
To the topic at hand I dearly love my Triumph Spitfire but the engine is a bit … lame compared to the rest of the package. I’d love a Suzuki Swift GTi engine which can be converted to rear wheel drive with a Samurai gearbox. I’d be boosted to a full 100hp and gain an overdrive cog in the gearbox.
+1 I’ve learned that the hard way.
I do like this swap, and I can see why it was done. It probably had the 292 Y block, and this must be a huge improvement in driveability, performance and economy.
Ignition has crossed my mind repeatedly, but here’s why I am thinking carburetor:
If I hit the accelerator once, it floods. If I come back in 30 minutes, it will start with a little cranking, although now it isn’t wanting to start as readily.
Putting my foot to the floor while cranking, in an effort to clear its throat, only exacerbates the flooding.
Last fall, after I got it back from its overhaul, the coil went south as did the accelerator pump (internal to carb if I have incorrectly named it). So both were replaced along with the points.
It lit briefly when working on it Saturday, and ran smoothly for about two minutes. As soon as I touched the throttle, it died and would not restart as it acted flooded. At this moment, I’m thinking the accelerator pump is either dirty or bad.
I did take out the float and it neither sloshes when shaken nor sinks when in a bucket of water.
So far, there is no gasoline in the oil.
One idea: Do you have any pooling of fuel in the manifold external to the carb? If your 63 is anything like my old 67, these Fords used a diaphragm in their accelerator pump. Mine went bad the morning after I bought the car. I pleaded with my neighbor to come and look at it. He spent nearly a week of evenings fussing with it. The diaphragm was the first thing he checked. It looked ok. After he had tried everything else, he replaced the diaphragm and it fired right up.
The pump works by a lever on the front of the carb that pushes a rubber diaphragm, which squirts fuel into the carb throat. When the diaphragm leaks, fuel will dribble out of its housing, and the car is actually starved for fuel rather than flooded, but all the gas in the manifold makes it smell flooded. You might see if you can get your hands on an accelerator pump diaphragm and swap it out. Back in the 70s, this was as easy as buying an inexpensive carb kit. May be harder now.
That’s a good question.
So far, I have not seen any fuel external to the carburetor. I had the top of the carburetor off and pulled the throttle linkage and fuel shot in quite well. However, I will likely be looking it over again this evening.
Checked your choke? My AC 190 tractor (straight six, gas) got really hard to start cold. It turned out the choke cable had slipped… Of course, that would lead to a lean condition, not over-rich as you describe.
Ed, the choke is also on my agenda.
The other thing of course is that modern fuel eats away rubber. I know your carb was rebuilt, right?
However the ethanol still may have degraded it…there’s no telling if it may be the case.
Also a concern of mine. After two tanks of 10% ethanol I’ve been running 91 octane with zero alchohol.
Step away from the carburetor, at least until you’ve verified that you have a strong enough spark to actually start the engine and that the resistor by pass system is working properly.
The fact that you say that the coil and points were replaced last fall makes me think ignition. Unless you spend top dollar the coils and points that you get today are junk and even the expensive points often use a nylon rubbing block that often wears out particularly if it isn’t greased and most points sets don’t come with a grease capsule anymore and the average technician today wouldn’t know what to do with it if it was included.
The proper way to check the spark is to disconnect the coil wire and either install a spark tester or position the metal end of the coil wire a minimum of 1/4″ away from a good ground but preferably about a 3/8″ gap. If you need to reduce the gap to less than 1/4″ the ignition system is not strong enough to start an engine. The fact that you say it gets worse when you try to flood clear by holding down the throttle supports that. If you open the throttle the cylinders get more air which means that the compression in the cylinder will be higher. The higher the pressure in the cylinder the greater the voltage requirement for a spark to occur.
You should also verify that the resistor bypass wire is still intact. When you crank an engine the battery voltage drops due to the large draw. With the resistor in the circuit the voltage at the coil will often be too low for the coil to generate a high enough voltage. So there is a resistor bypass system to give full battery voltage to the coil when cranking. Find your starter relay (solenoid) and connect an ohm meter to the I terminal and the coil + terminal you should have near zero resistance between those two terminals.
You also need to verify the gap of the points and the condition of the contacts. If you got a set with the soft rubbing block it may have worn to the point that the gap is minimal and thus the coil’s saturation time (dwell) is too low to produce a strong enough spark.
The other question is the spark plugs, you really need to pull a couple and see if they are wet with fuel and soot covered or not. If they have liquid fuel on them and a lot of soot you will need to pull them all, dry them out and clean them. The soot is carbon and it will conduct electricty so what can happen is that there is a path to ground so there is no need to jump the gap to complete the circuit and create a spark.
An accelerator pump that hasn’t been modified will not put out enough fuel to cause a flooding situation. When they fail the engine doesn’t get enough fuel as it will leak out onto the intake if you have a Autolite/Motorcraft or Holley modular carb.
Now if it is leaking or just weak due to a bad check valve they can cause the engine to die when you hit the throttle. However when you hit the throttle the voltage required to make a spark goes up so a weak ignition can cause the same problem. If you see a strong steady stream coming from the accelerator pump nozzle when you open the throttle and gas isn’t leaking out onto the manifold (assuming a Autolite or Holley modular carb) then the accelerator pump is not your problem.
A blown power valve can cause an engine to run too rich but you can usually get them going by following the flood clear procedure of holding the throttle all the way open. If it is bad then you will not get a good smooth idle.
Thank you!
I will be trying this soon.
Yep. 90% of fuel problems are electrical in nature.
I’m starting to feel better about this and I will likely have to someday answer for all the foul language I have used the last few days. Thank you all, many times over.
I don’t have anything to add except that you can eliminate the points setting, dwell angle hassle by installing a Pertronix ignition inside the distributor. No more leaning way over the finder to finesse an adjustment!
Mark, yes you can go with a Pertronix but if you get the Pertronix the only advantage is slightly less frequent leaning over and making a tedious adjustment. You will have to do it again as well as spend another chunk of cash when, not if it fails. For an engine like the FE that lived until electronic ignition came around the best choice is to fit a later distributor. It is cheaper than the Pertronix, more reliable, and the parts are in stores if there is a failure. Depending on which module you use you can also get a serious increase in potential voltage.
C3 Corvette + coyote V8 + TR6060.
C3 with any LS series with a 5 speed Tremec.
Dodge Conquest /Mitsubishi Starion with a Ford 302. Apparently the engine fits like it was made for it and weight difference between the two engines is not that great.
I saw on another website a 65 Mustang with a Lima 2.3L Turbo out of a Mustang SVO.
An aircooled Beetle with a Harley twin as motivation
Citroen CX Series 1 mated to a 3.0 Alfa 24v V6, bliss…..
Or a CX fitted with a Mazda Renesis rotary engine…
Or CX fitted with a Twin Turbo Rotary from the FD?
I would go for a Subaru H4 or H6.
Arguably all three domestic truck brands offer an excellent base V-8 and automatic that would power just about any classic full size or mid size domestic RWD car with a level of power, refinement, reliability and fuel economy that the original drivetrain didn’t come close to. Put the current Ford 5.0 and six speed auto in a 1965 Continental for me.
Cars they should’ve built:
Chevrolet Vega + Chevy II 153 four. Pontiac Sprint 6 if it’ll fit and not ruin the handling, but that would be the upgrade.
Toyota Prius + the FR-S’ flat-4/6 speed manual/RWD powertrain. The ultimate secret-fun car.
I’ve been dreaming of a Prius with a blown 500 cid BBC.
+1 on the Vega/153. I’m sure it wasn’t long before GM was wishing that’s what they’d done in the first place.
-Pontiac OHC 6 in a ’75-’79 X-body
-Aussie Mopar Hemi 6 in a Duster or Dodge pickup
-289 in a Mark 1 Cortina
-Mopar 340-powered Sunbeam Tiger
I think the 153 was the standard engine in the Chevy Monza. Same difference as a Vega.
The Monza started out with the Vega 140 and then went to the 151 cid Pontiac “Iron Duke” later on. I don’t think the 153 had any OEM applications after the 1970 Nova.
I would like to swap either an early 90s SHO V6 or an SVO Turbo 4 into my 1964 Mercury Comet. Unfortunately both are rarer than hen’s teeth these days.
Around here there are always a couple of “running” early SHOs on the local craigslist. Unfortunately most of the affordable ones have over 200K miles. Cheap Turbo Coupes used to be pretty common on the local craigslist for cheap, again “running” but with 200k miles. The later TC 2.3 is pretty close to the SVO 2.3 in output in stock form and either can have their HP cranked up pretty high.
Either would be very cool and could make for a very economical cruiser assuming you can be gentle on the throttle.
A TC 2.3 would be fine too. Down here in muscle car land where “there is no replacement for displacement,” those small turbo motors never gained much traction. Might be why they’re kinda hard to find in my neck of the woods these days. Does anyone know if the Ford/Yamaha SHO engine was ever put in anything with rear wheel drive. Back in the day there was talk of a Ranger fitted with it. It never made it to production if I remember correctly. Just wondering how difficult it would be to adapt to rear wheel configuration.
There were no production RWD versions of the SHO V6, however since it is a Vulcan 3.0 at heart it shares the same bellhousing pattern as it’s lesser cousin. That means that you can use a transmission for a Ranger or Aerostar with the Vulcan 3.0. There is a difference in the RWD and FWD blocks though. The design of the transaxle requires two of the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine to be inserted from the engine block side. That means the FWD version has 2 through holes where the RWD version has tapped holes for the bolt to come from the transmission side. The quick fix is a longer bolt with a nut. From what I’ve read the holes are there to put the RWD motor mounts on the FWD block, which would make mounting the engine a bolt in affair for a vehicle that came with the Vulcan 3.0.
I had a brief discussion with a gentleman on Hooniverse about a vehicle that could meet the following design criteria:
1. Get from LA to Vegas in 2.5 hours (average speed of 108 mph.)
2. …while hauling six adult men and their luggage…
3. …while staying relatively invisible to cops.
So far, the ideal vehicle seems to be a Buick Roadmaster wagon. But I would submit my drivetrain swap candidate: A doudy Grand Caravan stuffed with SRT-4 hardware. Some serious brakes would be necessary to haul it down from triple-digit speeds, but it would definitely have the seating and the anonymity chops.
Other candidates include a Tesla Model S with a generator strapped to the roof, a Ram SRT-10 with a modified bench seat, and a Mercedes 300SEL 6.3. But I think a Caravan is the only thing that could be properly invisible at those speeds. I want to see it done.
This: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78InPT4iqlw
The Caravan has been done, all with bolt-on parts. Ralph Gilles, former SRT CEO built one that acquitted itself well on the track.
I really want to know if Chevrolet’s current 280HP direct-injected 4.3L V6 could be fitted with a custom oil pan and bolted to the wacky FWD Toronado transmission. I want a roadtrip Toronado/Eldorado with its giant flat floor and cavernous interior, but that gas mileage is pretty daunting.
I imagine the weight savings of a modern engine would somewhat offset the reduction in horsepower…and those brakes would need some serious upgrades too.
I dream of making good use of an Ecoboost 2.0 in a first gen Ranchero or Falcon. Maybe even a Pinto cruising wagon. That EcoBoost engine is magic….resto-modders should get with the program–quit the SBC thing and get creative with the EcoBoost 2.0!
My smartass answer is to take a 60s Camaro, Chevelle or Impala and replace the smallblock/Glide with a 383 and Torqueflite. Just because. The side benefit will be a Chevy that is both powerful and pleasant to drive. 🙂
More seriously, I have spent 20 years dreaming of putting a 390/FMX Cruise-O-Matic into a Box Panther. Just to see if I would like the car any better with some torque. Of course, a Mustang GT 5.0 would be so much easier.
Another fun swap would have been a Cadillac 390/Jetaway HydraMatic from 1959-63 into my 89 Cadillac Brougham. Would have solved about every problem that car ever had. Again, I realize that a 425/THM would be easier by an order of magnatude, but there is something about a really old-school powertrain in a more modern car. I realize I’m doing this backwards from most people.
460 in a Panther. Because torque 😀
When I was in high school, I got the notion of swapping a Mercury 312 Y-block into a military Jeep. I’ll go with that.
I’m more of a Japanese car fan, so I’ll save everyone the endless potential B18 / 4A swaps I grew up around. That said, I could enjoy myself a 1968 or 1969 Belvedere or Satellite hardtop with a ’68 LA 340 with the hotter cam profile swapped in. I’ve always liked that particular body style, and hopefully the reduced weight up front could give decent gains in road holding ability 🙂
ALH TDI and 6 speed manual in the 86 Jetta would be nice, same HP as now + more torque and MPG. Agree on checking accelerator pump action, just look down carb throat and see if you have strong fuel flow out of nozzles while working accelerator linkage. I would disconnect choke and make sure it stays completely open. When cold give it 3 or 4 pumps and it should start right up, it will take a little ‘goosing’ and warm up before driving. I would convert to manual choke, you can buy a kit to convert. Also make sure needle and seat is not leaking, that can flood the carb. An in line electric pump by the tank and removing the mechanical pump will do wonders for starting after it has been sitting because it fills the carb before cranking the engine and you wont have vapor lock problems when hot.
+1 on manual choke.
1966 New Yorker that someone pirated the 440 from. Repowered with some kind of diesel, but I’m not sure what. Good options are somewhat limited. Possibly the 3.9L Cummins 4BT. I’ve wondered if it could be angled to one side like a slant-6 for better hood clearance. Or perhaps the Mercedes 5-cylinder diesel commonly found in 1st gen Sprinter vans.
I have a few:
1: Mazda KL-ZE into an NA Miata: Should’ve been offered at least as an option from the factory. I’ve owned a Miata and a few KL powered cars, and it’d be a match made in heaven. The engine loved to rev and sounded great while doing it. I’m sure that a few people have done it but seeing how the K was only used in transverse applications it’s no easy task.
2: GM Atlas motor into…well…anything. It’s one of my favorite motors and I feel like they missed an opportunity by not putting it into a car. Maybe a ’77-ish Impala with a tired 250 would be a good candidate?
3: Mitsubishi 4G63t into a Hyundai Excel: This has actually been done many times. They came from the factory with the Mitsu 4G15, and it pretty much just bolts right in.
4: AMC 4.0 I6 into a Rambler American/Spirit/Eagle
5. Turbo Ecotec into a Fiero. This has also been done before, but I think it’s an awesome idea.
6. SVO motor into a Fairmont wagon. It’d keep the outside looking bone stock.
7. Turbo 4.3 from the Cyclone into a B-Body, or even an Astro.
8. VQ35DE into the B15 (2002-2006) SE-R. It’s been done, and even used to (still does?) have kits to do this online. Completely transforms the car.
9. A flat 6 from the SVX would be pretty cool in a Corvair, at least in my opinion.
10. Longitudinal 1.8t from an A4/Passat into an Audi Fox/VW Fox. The blocks between the motors were pretty similar. It’d be interesting to see someone do it.
11. RB25DET into a first generation Maxima. It’s been done at least once before, and it sounds like it’d make for an awesome and unique daily driver.
12. I’d also like to own one of the K-Car Town and Country wagons with an SRT4 swap. I’m sure that some people on here have seen the one that was for sale a few months back.
13. EJ25t Swapped early 90’s Legacy Sport Sedan/Touring wagon. I’ve always liked the lines on those, but they stuck is with the lame EJ22t in the American market.
…..and I’m done. I don’t think that I’m missing any =)
All wonderful choices.
+1 on the Atlas motor. I’d like to put one in a late seventies Nova coupe. Being a five speed man, I’d also go with the Aisian manual used in the Colorado and Solstice.
A few i’d like would be the 4.6 Ford V8 in a 67/68 Mercury Cougar.
A 289 or 302 Ford V8 in a Mk2 Granada(European)
A 289 or 302 Ford V8 in any Ford Zephyr/Zodiac
Smallblock Chevy in a Vauxhall PC Cresta
A modern hemi in a 70 Superbee(In moulin rouge/panther pink)Barbie’s muscle car
Well I see I am not the only one thinking of putting a small block in a 70’s sedan built by european subsidiaries of GM and Ford…
The lucky South Africans could get the 302 Perana Granada as well as the Capri.There was a 327 Opel Diplomat in the 60s,I’ve only ever seen one in the metal though
I wish I had a 350 ci and a TH-350 in my 1975 4-door Opel Rekord.
Hope the uncommon recipient will make me avoid getting a penalty.
Moreover, I’m not talking about a crate engine here.
I’d rather have a late 70’s stock engine with a 4 barrel and a mild output of 160-180 hp.
More horsepower would be overkill in the Rekord’s lightweight body.
You have kept all points for having a creative recipient! 🙂
I have concocted some others…
MKIII Golf with 1.2 or 1.4 TSI + 6sp manual. CC factor + modern FE.
ST84 Celica with modern Camry 4 cyl or 2ZZ. Your choice of daily driver friendly torque or sky high RPMs power.
VT Commodore with HFV6 (came with VZ) or Nissan RB20DET (from a VL) or BMW 3.0 turbodiesel. Or get the bits from a GN to create a turbo 3800.
Old Mustang with a HO Barra turbo, 315KW of Aussie awesomeness FTW!!11!!
88-98 C/K Chevy truck with a modern LS series engine + 6sp auto. It could be the GDI 4.3 named above.
I agree with the EB comment above. The thing is, SBC is probably cheaper to buy and/or soup up.
Let’s go the other way: Vega 140 in a 53 Corvette (replacing the Blue Flame six). Think of the comments you’d get at a car show! (c:
Are you including the flame retardant suit with that?
1) 80s Mustang GT 5 liter plus T5 into my 79 Pace Car replica
2) Same engine/transmission in place of the lame-ass 302 in my 75 Monarch. That car had plenty of shortcomings, but more power and better mileage would be a huge improvement (along with suitable suspension/drivetrain upgrades).
Chaps, have a look at the interwebZ… there’s some people swapping Panther chassis + modular powertrain into old Ford trucks.
I haven’t seen anyone put an entire Panther Chassis under an old Ford truck. Way way back when people married the front half of a pre-Panther full size Ford with the stock back half of 50’s era F-series. Now the thing is to use the front suspension crossmemeber from an 03 up Panther and bolt it to the existing frame. Most of the ones that I have seen don’t use the 4.6 which seems a little silly since the engine mounts are on the cross member so they are ready to go.
You’re right. It was a front crossmember + engine swap. Although that guy also used the rear suspension setup and diff IIRC.
What about converting your Galaxie to Fuel Injection?
There is a certain charm of having the car as original despite my current (and fleeting) frustration with it.
Here’s how I think of it: As equipped, it is like a good, stout unfiltered Camel cigarette – full of unabashed flavor and you know you are alive when you smoke (drive) it. Going to FI would be fun in an e-cigarette type of way; still a kick in the shorts, but missing that certain something.
That, and I’m a cheap-ass.
Guys, you nee to revisit some of my past posts from Bonneville. Henry J with an SHO V6, you got it. 1951 Studebaker with an Isuzu diesel? You too can go 93 mph. Falcon Ranchero with an inline six Nissan, good for over 140 mph.
I too was one to dis anything running an SBC until I read Paul Van Valkenburgh’s “Chevrolet-Racing, Fourteen Years of Raucous Silence”. I came away with renewed respect for the engine. Chevrolet continues to design and refine pushrod motors that defy the multi-cam me-too school of design. Would I put one in my fantasy hot rod? No.
I now need to read Valkenburgh’s book.
You are quite correct the SBC is a fantastic engine that has powered everything imaginable. That is why I would never use it either.
I’ve always wanted to put a bored out and turbocharged BMW R100 motorcycle engine in a unsuspecting BMW 700 coupe, although maybe I should update to an R1200 mill and skip the the turbo.
Alternatively I’d like to freak out the purists by building a 427 Cobra powered by a Chevy ZL1 aluminum 427.
An AMC Matador Coupe converted to rear-engine with the drivetrain from a Taurus SHO. I’d call it the Corrida.
Since were just dreaming, I would love to see a modern version of the Packard straight 8 in a big car. Alloy construction, computer controlled ignition/fuel injection, 4 valve head with variable timing – imagine the smooth torque! The car would have to be modern old school as well. Big enough, upright, butt height seats, column shift with no console, solid, etc.
A Toyota Century with a straight 8!
I’d have to say… 1971 Datsun 240Z with a Nissan VQ35DET and an X-Trac sequential shift transmission. It’s a lesson in descendants. The L28 is the big great grandaddy of the VQ series, and Datsun was the U.S. arm of Nissan/Prince Motor Co., so I’m in a way keeping the bloodline pure. The VQ is a rather reliable and modular engine, so I can have fun with it. Plus, the weight of the 240Z’s thin-gauge body means that the 256 HP from the standard VQ35DET would be more than enough to get me in trouble. The question is the sensors and whether or not they’ll work without the CPU. I don’t trust computers in cars.
Well the 4.6 into just about anything but my first choices would be a 60’s Cougar or a 64 Comet.
However, if we are just dreaming what I’d really like to do is a V10 in a Panther. Pretty much a bolt in affair as they stuffed the 4.6 pretty tight against the firewall so there is a lot of room between the front of the engine and the radiator. My first choice would be an 03 Cartier L or 04 Ultimate L. Since it would be getting a new power train anyway a unit with 400k-500K on the clock would make for a cheap starting point. The other option would be to do it on a 2dr Box and add a 03-up chassis while I’m at it just so I wouldn’t have to make the engine mounts ;).
V10 in a CV
And here is a stock CV from the era when they were still using the engine driven fan, the deep shroud and extended fan clutch to take up the room the left for the V10
Once upon a time, I remember reading something about Ford putting propane powered V10’s into Panther cabs as part of an endurance and/or durability test.
Not sure whatever became of it, but that would have made for a memorable ride with the right driver.
When looking for the pictures I came across this blurb about a propane burning V10 powered Panther. http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/propane-v-10-ford-crown-victoria-police-interceptor-specialty-file-specs-page-1 Unfortunately they say nothing about the car. With the propane power I could see it being a Ford prototype, as my bet is someone doing this on their own would keep it gas for max performance. I could see Ford doing it though as making it a propane burning means that it would meet alternative fuel requirements and the V10 would make better power than the gas 4.6. So the dept gets to meet their AFV goal/mandate, have lower cost of operation without a loss of performance like you got with the NGV and propane conversions on the gas 4.6.
I remember reading a similar article. Triton V10 in a Panther, one of the LWB “Livery” versions. Supposedly it was being considered for production but it never did happen.
Ford 300 six into something. Maverick has been done (with turbo) but haven’t seen a Granada. Alternate would be a 5 cyl mercedes diesel into almost anything mid size. Can’t quite make myself put it into my 57 when I have a good 283 but there are lots of choices. A camaro would really P.O.some people.
Maybe try a 70s Ford LTD. Throw on some less restricting headers and get someone to tune to carb, you’ve got a nice luxo-barge that doesn’t have the hunger of a blue whale.
In the truck applications the 300 usually didn’t get better MPG in the real world than an otherwise identical truck with the 302. If you were going to do anything in a early 70’s LTD and improving MPG was part of the goal then a HO 5.0 or 4.6 would be the way to go.
I’m not getting any nibbles on my ’95 F-150, and the EFI 300 still runs great. Hmmm… wonder if it would fit in the ’63 VW Beetle?
LOTS of ideas!
I can think of about a zillion things Id like to stuff a modern Hemi into, top of the list would be a halfcabbed ’03-’06 extended length TJ Wrangler.
Its a full on custom job, but Ive always wanted to cut up a PT cruiser into a sort of a “PT-Bucket” roadster and use the Hemi, front/rear suspension from an LX car. But then, Id also like to work up a H.O. 2.4 turbo from a PT and rework it to the rwd chassis and do the exact same PT bucket.
Ive always wanted to get a 2.5L common block engine from an early Dakota, convert it to a turbo II, and drop that into a flatfender Willys Jeep. The power to weight ratio would be insane, and it would make for a hell of a sand/mud rocket.
If I had a Dodge Daytona or Chrysler Laser, there are several upgraded mopar turbo drivetrains Id like to work into one: The 2.2L common block can be re-worked to accept the later 2.4L turbo’s head..gains DOHC and a 16v crossflow head so it would give the gains of the Turbo III’s Lotus head. BUT, the neon SRT-4’s engine and LSD transaxle will swap in with some work. Buildable to 400hp on the stock internals. But then, the Caliber SRT-4′ is 280 hp bone stock, so there IS that. Of course if added the right subframes and converted it to rwd, I wouldn’t be the first. Add the new Hellcat Hemi….GRRRR!!!!
A cummins 6bt in an open top Ramcharger/Trailduster has been done before, but I want one!
A cummins 4bt in an A-100 panel van would make the ultimate roadtripper.
Id love to take a ’79 Spirit AMX in all its striped, fiberglass fendered glory and get a seriously worked up 401 AMC plant under the hood.
Id like to have a cheesy opera windowed but under the radar Mopar malaise era coupe such as a ’78 Lebaron, ’80 Cordoba LS or Mirada, ’80 Diplomat coupe etc and put a 340 and 4spd in it for a total sleeper.
Id like to take a 2 door ‘super K’ such as the boxy fwd Lebaron or Dodge 600 and build a ‘synthetic’ Mexican Dodge Magnum. Again, the exact turbo Mopar drivetrain could vary, but basically Id like to have a boxy little 80s era sleeper that would truly smoke the unsuspecting!
BMW m-54 (3.0 liter) into a first gen firebird. Smooooth inline, linear power, efficient, and enough oomph to make it fun
There is a substantial penalty for using a Chevrolet 350 as your power source!
In that case, I got nothin’.
I want to swap the slant 6 and 3-speed manual in my 65 Belvedere for a 350 with the Turbo 350… just kidding as I hate that combo. I’d go with the Pentastar V6 with the manual.
Jaguar V-12 into a ’70s LTD. British reliability and American road manners, together at last in the ultimate transatlantic malaisemobile.
That is a great combination with likely no difference in fuel consumption.
The upcoming 2015 Mustang’s ecoboost 4 in a 83-88 Thunderbird TurboCoupe or 83-86 Cougar XR7
-An Atlas engine swapped into an Advanced Design series Chevy or GMC pickup from the early Fifties. I’d prefer a 4 or 5 speed stick, but a modern automatic wold do the job as well.
-A Packard straight 8 with modern fuel injection and a computerized engine management system. Add a Torque Flite or THM 350 or 400 and you’d have a smooth, reliable drivetrain.
-A modern Mercedes CDI engine dropped into an old Ponton 180D. Someone in our neighborhood had an old 180D that you could hear clattering away for blocks. The CDI wold be much quieter with a lot more power.
-A Porsche Boxter engine dropped into a Subaru Forester. Talk about a sleeper!
-A new 4.6 litre (preferably the Police Interceptor version) into any old Ford that originally held a flathead. Lots more power and none of the overheating problems.
LS into Pontiac Solstice.
I believe it’s been done, with predictable results 😀 .
Jeez, I used to sit around all day thinking about them…
Here’s a kinda boring one – when I was busy going through many 1st & 2nd gen Honda Accords, I always wanted to swap a D16 VTEC engine into one of them. That’s “D”, not “B” – the 125HP engine found in 90s Civics. They’re really light engines, a couple hundred pounds less than the Accord’s stock iron-block E-series, in fact. It would’ve been nearly double the horsepower, perfectly reliable and driveable in any conditions, plus sub-2,000lbs. and probably capable of getting over 40mpg highway – all for a few hundred bucks (plus mad labor)!
I love the GM Atlas engines, but finding a suitable home for one would be tough since they’re so tall. I’m thinking Colonnade Malibu sedan or ’77-’79 Impala and the 3.7l 5-cylinder – since it was available with a manual transmission.
Oh, here we go: ’76 AMC Pacer hatchback, Mexican VAM 4.8l block, 4.0l EFI Cherokee head, Wrangler 6-speed! Or substitute the same drivetrain in an Eagle Limited wagon with an electronically-controlled NP242 part/full-time transfer case from one of the GM or Dodge trucks.
My ultimate Corvair fantasy is always changing, but at the moment lets say ’65 Monza sedan, 4-speed, with MegaSquirt-ized 180HP Corsa turbo engine and A/C.
Fiat 126bis with their new TwinAir 2-cylinder swapped in. That engine is so cool and I love the later 126 styling in red with the black trim. A Yugo GV could also work if a 126 was too tough to source.
Toyota Previa S/C AWD 5-speed – they sold Previas with all of these options, but never all at the same time, unfortunately.
This isn’t even really an “engine swap” but I’ve always been fascinated by fuel-injection conversions and turbo installations on ancient flathead engines, straight sixes and eights. I probably wouldn’t have the heart to hack up a complete original car that old, but I’d love to build something like that. Along the same lines, I’ve also always wanted to build a Rambler Rebel that approximated the Bendix Electrojector prototype car using early Bosch D-jet parts. Or a ’58 Plymouth for that matter.
Having had a 66 Gal with the 390/2bbl, I know for a fact that unless you buy Motorcraft EVERYTHING for electrics, the car simply won’t run right. I blew up two different sets of caps, coils, and wires and two rebuilt starters until I went completely OEM. Cost a ton. But… Then no probs at all.
My 2¢: Keep the car stock and upgrade to the best FoMoCo parts possible. Barring that, swap in the 1995 300 ci Big Six, get a good machine shop to make a bell housing work with your current trans. Bulletproof, OBD-1, it’ll run forever and if you throw on a cat, no guilt about the environment – and mileage would improve too.
So yeah, if I could do it, it’d be my ol’ 66 with a Big Six and a 5-speed.
Having an adapter made to keep the OE trans would be pretty expensive and since it is a 63 if it has a stock trans it would be the FX or MX neither of which is still supported very well. It would be cheaper to swap in a C6 or AOD that fits the engine and you’d get a transmission that still has wide support. The AOD of course would have the added benefit of the OD.
I’ve always thought the Subaru BRAT could use some help from it’s younger siblings. Sourcing the full drivetrain and suspension from a WRX or STi and stuffing into the BRAT unibody with a tasteful melding of the BRAT and later Subi interior bits.
GM still has the designs for a 1/2 ton Duramax kicking around somewhere. Not sure how close to production ready the engine is, but maybe in some alternate universe these motors actually made it to the general public. Plugging one of these diesels into anything that has the room for a SBC would be awesome.
I think the 2.0 ecoboost engine in a lotus 7 would be a hoot, the other one I would like to see would be the 3.5 ecoboost out of my f-150 go into a late 90’s panther, ultimate sleeper!
A EB powered Panther would be cool, heck even the Mustang spec 3.7 would make for a cool ride too. The question is what would you do with the 2′ between the engine and the radiator.
I don’t know, but the weight distribution would have to be better and make for a better handling car, the 4.6 that was in there was no match for the weight of these cars,( I know they made police persuit vehicles) the 3.5 eco is a torque monster, this would be a sleeper for sure.
It would be interesting to know the weight difference between the iron block V8 and either version the all aluminum V6 and just how it affects the weight distribution as all of the weight you would remove would be in front of the wheels.
What about a Citroen DS with a Subaru flat six, just as God intended?
A early 1970s Oldsmobile 98 Regency with a modern smooth and reliable diesel could be rather nice…
Great shout, that would be a sweet DS
Just imagine if the Subaru AWD could be added to the hydropneumatic suspension as well!
May have some driveability imperfection as an AWD. The narrow rear track was designed to offset FWD.
Throw in DIRAVI steering and hydraulic brakes like a SM and you’re sorted.
Awww, you beat me to the DS/Subaru combination. Always thought that would be great – and you’d be able to lose the engine intrusion into the front footwells.
DS was meant to have a H6 but didn’t have the budget to do at the time. Come to think of it, DS-H6 should be my first engine swap project. Probably time consuming to modified suspension/brake system though.
Used to be that the only way to make a Ford run good was to put a Chevy engine in it! For the top photo, that’s still true.
For me, a 1967 Camaro, 250/Powerglide is my speed, as long as it is red.
As to different powertrain set-ups goes, I’m not sure it’s a good idea for a daily driver. For the track? Well, that’s another story.
Today…probably an ’85-’88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe with a 5.0 HO swap. That would be the best car ever for a long highway trip (IMO).
I too have a few ideas on such projects.
1. Cummins 6bt in a) Ford Excursion b) Hummer H1 c) in a classic cadillac
2. Cadillac 472/500 in a 59-60 cadillac
3. supercharged LSX a 96 Impala SS with T56
4. N/A 408 LSX stroker in a) a late Panther P71 with a 4L80E b) Hummer H2
5. a Volvo 2.3 T5 engine in a 2nd gen XC70
6. 1st gen Bentley Continental GT with a twin turbo LSX (even if i have to give up AWD)
7. Plymouth Prowler with a modern Hemi transplant.
Prowler with 6.1L Hemi conversion
http://www.allpar.com/fix/engines/SRT-Prowler-project.html
Probably already mentioned but an Atlas OHC six into an early fifties Chevy. It should fit without too much difficulty as these cars had a deep engine bay to accomodate the huge air cleaner that was used then. I would definitely include the AOD transmission from the donor truck as well, along with some modern front spindles so I could have disc brakes. The ideal vehicle for this swap, at least in my eyes, would be a sedan delivery.
Corvette C6 rolling chassis: engine, torque tube, transaxle, front/rear suspension and brake, steering ………. under ………… Jensen Interceptor. Same wheelbase and width even fit. Almost made for each other.
Peugeot 504, 5 spd manual, with the current 2 liter HDI, 140 hp. Less displacement, twice the power and MPG.
’68 Pontiac Sprint Six into a ’73 or ’74 GTO with four speed manual and suspension upgrades.
Alternately, Chevy 292 six into ’68 Nova with super low ratio rear (2.50:1) for economical highway cruising.
Now THAT would be a kicker, MarcKyle 64 . . . big huge torque truck 292 in a Nova. Same engine – short stroke “modern” Chevy six introduced for ’62 (Nova) ’63 (all other Chevies including trucks). The tall rear would work well for great highway cruising, economy (speed) as well as the 292’s torque having more than enough ‘oomph’ for impressive starts and low-gear lugging . . . .
I’d rather take GTO suspension bits, a THM and modern brakes with a Spring 4-bbl six in a well-equipped survivor LeMans, although at car shows, the joke would be on many to see a Sprint Six in a REAL (not “tribute”) Goat!!
The latter in the ’74 X GTO would be more feasible as these weren’t considered “true” Goats . . . .
Dodge Neon ACR with the Mini Cooper S’s supercharged 1.6… but with Chrysler engine management and no pesky drive-by-wire.
Citroen 2CV + Honda F20C (AP1 S2000 engine) with associated tranny and diff (6MT, Torsen).
1st gen Dodge Caravan AWD with the turbo III and 5-speed from a Spirit R/T. Or use a Chrysler Town. & Country van if you prefer.
the other swap I would like to do is a corvette c5 chassis complete under my 65 corvair!
I’m somewhat of a purist, however in terms of drivability and to have a functional somewhat reliable semi-daily driver, I would probably be inclined to have some modern drivetrain bits underneath what I’d desire as a truly stock or close to original looking machine. Case in point:
I still drool about ‘someday’ wanting Bruneau Enterprises up in Alberta build me a “new old stock” Canadian Pontiac. As ’61 Pontiacs were such a part of my youth, I’d love a ’61 Pontiac. Sedan or wagon, and being American, I’d welcome the difference of the comparable somewhat Canadian Poncho. I’d have to go stick and the SBC or Canadian “Astro-Fire” 283 might be the ticket. As close to original looking as possible, but substituting carb and cast iron manifold for a tuned-port injection system and even go over to 1980s/90s breakerless ignition, electric fan. Or, the ubiquitous LS-1 350, but with ‘painted’ orange Chevy/Canadian Poncho valve covers to get as close as possible to the original.
Disc ABS brakes, slightly stiffer springs and a more modern, variable-ratio steering box.
Since the American Pontiac Catalina/Ventura went down to a 119″ wheelbase, (equal to the ’61 Chevy whose wheelbase was similar, but had the “X” frame as opposed to the U.S. Pontiac full perimeter), The Canadian Pontiacs don’t look quite as “odd” with the narrower Chevy X frame track vis-à-vis American Pontiac juniors as did the Canadian vs. American ’59 and ’60 models.
Just a thought.
A 572 Hemi in a 1950 Studebaker Starlight coupe. I’ve always like those cars and I’m a big fan of the Hemi.
A Coyote in a Fairmont, been done before and becoming a popular swap (or for that matter in any Fox), an LS in a C4 since C4’s can be had for next to nothing, a Cummins 4BT in a Ranger (a friend’s doing that right now), an EFI 302/T5 in a first gen Miata (saw one a couple of weeks ago).
-89 Mitsubishi Sigma with an AWD Evo IX drivetrain
-79 Malibu with a GNX-spec turbo 3.8 Buick***
-Fox Lincoln Continental with the DOHC InTech 4.6
-Jaguar Mark X with the supercharged AJ V8 from an XJR
-Dodge Mirada with a 340 (MoparRocker and I were thinking alike on this one)
-Rover P5B Coupe with BMW N54 TT I6
-Acura Legend Coupe (2nd series) with C32B V6 (Honda NSX engine)
On my list of things to do:
1971 -1974 AMC Javelin (preferably SST model or lower trim spec, no AMXs, don’t want to ruin history) with SBC or LSx & Tremec. I know it would be a lot of fabbing, but once done, it would be G L O R I O U S!
Pursuant to the RWD H body posting that came after this, an HO 3.4L V6 in any of the 1975-1980 H bodies. Use the 185 horsepower HO Ram Air V6 from the 1998-2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT along with the 5 speed from the V6 powered mid 90’s F bodies. Or, a Quad 4 HO. Same power, less cylinders, somewhat lighter weight…
2.0 LSJ turbo (from Cobalt Turbo SS) in a Fiero, or a mid to late 80’s J-body. Pref Olds Firenza. Just because.
Additionally, the same 2.0 LSJ swapped into late model (2004- present) Epsilon I chassis cars, mostly my Pontiac G6.
Chrysler 2.2 turbo in a Yugo GV. In Eastern Europe, it’s not uncommon to see turbo Lancia motors swapped into these. Or, the same motor in a Fiat X-1/9.
A BMW or Atlas straight six in a Ford Falcon/Maverick/US Granada body.
LSx (or now LTx) in a Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ. Come on, you know *someone* is working on it as we speak…
The LS3 drivetrain from a Pontiac Grand Prix GXP or FWD Impala SS into a GM U-van, preferably my Aztek. Kind of an “Aztek from Hell Lite Version”. Although a LS3 equipped Uplander would screw with people’s minds…
LSx into a late 80’s Nissan 300ZX or a mid 90’s 200SX (Silvia).
OK, I’m done for a while. The Belgian beer I’m having is starting to affect my imagination…
Bit late to this party, but has anyone been following Project Binkie? http://www.badobsessionmotorsport.co.uk/test/index.php/projects/binky
A mini with a 2.0 Celica GT4 4WD underpinnings. And done right too, with some serious fabrication skills in making a mini chassis that can handle the power, and still demonstrably be a mini. They’re up to an interesting stage too, with the engine and running gear pretty much nailed down, but plenty of work still to do.