(not the actual car)
(sent in by Matthew P) I am thinking about buying a 1987 Mustang LX convertible with the 2.3 L four as a project car. I guess I am not good researching internet things because I just can’t seem to find a simple answer to my question. What’s the a high performance engine that isn’t crazy expensive that I can buy to replace the engine in this Stang and give it some balls? And how can I modify the suspension to make it capable to handle the new engine? Lastly…can I put a better braking system on it? If so which one? Please help guys…
What kind of $ are you planning to spend? I ask this because I don’t think you are going to find an “easy” answer.
Easy answer, get this one:
https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/6023687918.html
google “mustang 2.3l turbo engine swap”. More power without having to mod a ton of suspension and other stuff.
Either way, I suspect you’ll come out cheaper to buy a car that already has the engine you want in it. If you like engine swap projects, though, this could be fun.
I was going to say the same thing. It’s not hard to find engine you want in these cars – I imagine the 2.3 was the weakest seller in ’87.
If a person wants to upgrade this car, it’s a project of passion and money would have to be a secondary consideration.
The standard brakes really should not be a problem in this car. If they are, I’d suspect a mechanical or maintenance issue that needs to be looked after.
“I imagine the 2.3 was the weakest seller in ’87. ”
Actually, it was the top seller in ’87:
4 cylinder production numbers for the years 1987 to 1993 (as a percent of total Mustang sales):
’87- 63.5% ’88- 49.6% ’89- 48.7% ’90- 36.4% ’91- 37.0% ’92- 49.6% ’93- 57.6%
The 4 cylinder Fox Mustang is covered in depth in this Curbside article:
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/curbside-classics-american/curbside-classic-87-90-mustang-lx-our-dirty-little-secret/
@Dave Skinner: I re-read your 2.3 Mustang article, and couldn’t help but notice the “another manufacturer who offered a premium engine more than 2x the displacement of the base engine?” query—and so it got me thinking. I know Ford’s line best by far (it’s not really “another” manufacturer), but if the Falcon offered the 144 six and 289 V8 at the same time (1964-ish?), it would (barely) qualify. Better yet, the 1967 Fairlane, with the 200 six standard, but you *could* get the 427….
I think Chrysler briefly offered a 198ci six and a 440 in B bodies.
Also, GM had the 151ci Iron Duke standard and the 305 optional on F bodies for a few years.
I don’t know if this was still the case in 1987, but my son’s 1984 Mustang L had four bolt wheels… I would suspect (don’t know for a fact, tho) the V8 cars had five bolt wheels and correspondingly heavier-duty components and rear axle.
Other than the SVO, and maybe some other special editions like the Saleen, all Fox bodies had 4-bolt wheels. And the 5.0’s didn’t get the big 8.8″ axle for the first few years.
93 Cobra R too, which previewed the 94 tri-bars.
This is the powertrain that gave me a 24 year phobia of four-cylinder engines.
If you really want more power, just get one with a 5.0 – it’ll be easier and cheaper in the long run. If you want something to putt around town, leave the 2.3 as is. It isn’t a horrible engine by any means and the one I had was willing but simply unable to fulfill its ambitions.
Besides, if you are looking to modify it anyway, just go with a 5.0. Odds are it’s been modified and/or enhanced along the way and there is already a lot more power out of the gate.
+1
An LX 5.0 is going to have everything you are looking for, with no extra work or expense.
Now if they were going to PAY you to take the 2.3 that could be different, but if it’s any more than free then not worth it if you’re looking for performance.
Doug D has your best answer to your question.
What Jason Shafer said. I, however, would approach it a different way. Buy your 2.3 convertible then look for a sound but wrecked or rusty Mustang V8 to buy for fairly cheap. The 2.3 car will probably need the entire driveline replaced, right down to the wheels. Move the V8 stuff over to the nice one and there you go.
Some of these gave you two different versions of the 5.0 depending on whether you had the stick or automatic. I recall that they detuned the automatic cars of the mid 80s because the AOD could not handle the output. Maybe some later years were different. Also, a 5.0 out of a Grand Marquis or something similar is the LoPo version, and *not* the H.O. version that was the fun one. It takes quite a bit of parts replacement and effort to turn a LoPo 5.0 into an H.O.
I will respectfully disagree with Ed. The 2.3 Turbo might be a little easier to do, but it will not be anywhere near as fun to drive. It is a rough, unpleasant engine that must be kept boiling for any performance. It is a dog at low rpms. There is just no reason to do this, and I suspect that parts are much harder to source than are parts for V8s.
Having never driven a 2.3 turbo, I defer! (c:
Having driven one, I do not. It was a rocketship, even in a heavier car. (Tbird.) It lacks the onstant torque of 302…but also doesn’t run out of breath at 5000RPM.
Also, want more power from the turbo? That will be ONE DOLLAR!
You could get a turbo 2.3 in the SVO model up until ’86. If you can find a good SVO engine, it is an easy physical swap into the ’87. Trouble is some of the electronic engine control systems were unique to the SVO engine. For example, knock sensors on the SVO were still fairly primative. SVO’s needed a special selector switch to tell the engine what grade of fuel you were feeding it. Finding good electronic components for an original SVO engine will be even harder than finding the engine. If you’re so set on keeping a 4 that you’re willing to change engine control systems, I suggest getting a later model Ford turbo as Ed suggests. You’ll find engine control technology has advance a lot in the 30+ years since your ’87 was built. The newer engines will give you a lot more bang for your buck. If you’re not married to a 4, find a 5.0 around the vintage you want. You’ll pay more for the car, but it will end up being a lot cheaper. Not to mention all the other running gear capable of handling the increased engine output will already be in place. The original Mustang 4 was a pretty weak engine. It didn’t require very robust running gear.
The Fox Body Mustang is the most modifiable cars available. I’d join one of the major Mustang Forums on the Web or Facebook. There are many. You can put anything from a Turbo 2.3 for that Sportscar feel, or any of the many 5.0 V8’s. I’d skip over the middle of the road V6 options. Heck you can even P.O. The Ford camp and drop in a LS Chevy. Brakes are just as easy except you may need to go from 4 lug axles to stronger 5 lug and a 8.8 rear. It can be done on the cheap with lots of sweat equity. An easier path is to pick up a car with a 5.0 already in it. I have an 96 SVT Cobra ? with a 4.6L V8 DOHC. I’ve seen many people put $10K in their cars and sell them for $5K. There are lots of bargains out there, just check out Craigslist. Good luck keep us posted.
Ah…”not the actual car.”
And that’d be why one wouldn’t just take the fine looking Charger instead. Sorry, I have no other ideas.
+ 1 to All who said “Buy a Fox body that already has a 5.0 (or turbo).”
Having said that, and based on direct experience, here are the two easiest paths:
1) Replace the 2.3 with a 2.3 Turbo, Depending on the year, this engine came in two levels of tune (the hotter version included an air to air charge cooler), and can be found in the Mustang, T-Bird or Cougar Turbo coupes and the Merkur XR4Ti.
2) Replace the 2.3 with a High Output 5.0. This engine is primarily a Fox body Mustang or Capri engine, but appears in other cars as well. You’ll find it with a 2 bbl (’82 only), 4 bbl, or multiport injection, and I believe some automatic equipped Mustang GTs came with a detuned CFI version.
In the abstract, both engines drop into the 2.3 car. If you start with an engine out of another Fox body, the oil pan clears the crossmember and the engine mounts match up to the body mounts. The easiest V-8 path is a carbureted engine since that avoids wiring harness issues. The transmission behind the 2.3 won’t live behind either of these engines, so upgrade that as well.
However, here’s several reasons to avoid an engine swap:
1) 2.3 equipped Fox bodies generally came with 9″ discs up front. The 10″ discs used in the GTs were considered marginal, so losing an inch only makes things worse.
2) The GT came with an 8.8″ ring gear in the rear axle. The 2.3 came with a 7.5″ unit that the 5.0 will turn into shattered steel.
3) Swapping to the 5.0 also requires matching front springs to compensate for the added weight.
4) The GT rear axle includes snubbers and “quad shocks” to help manage engine torque. You can live without this, but it’s always easier to let Ford install factory parts at the factory.
There’s a few other minor issues, but that’s the big stuff.
As others CC’ers have stated, the only practical way to go is sell and buy or trade for a 5.0.
A cheap trailer hitch and hanging a set of “bull balls” off it is a low budget option.
Surprisingly for a car marketed as being a bit sportier, the XR4Ti did not come with an intercooler. They can be found as an after market addition as a FMIC with no need to cut the hood, or you can scoop the hood and put in the same TMIC as the SVO and T-Bird.
The output of the 5.0s in the Mustang were actually worse than the 2.3 turbo, with the SVO setup pretty much matching the V-8 in HP. 1986 SVO was 200HP, 325 lbs of torque. 5.0 was 200HP, 300 lbs of torque.
The short version: you will have enough problems with a 30 year old convertible without taking on the two-year project of swapping out the engine, transmission, brakes, and wiring harness.
Don’t be deceived by the TV shows that do all this in 30 minutes.
I’m getting old, but…nevertheless – there is no such thing as a four-cylinder Mustang. Sixes are inline. V8s are real Mustang powerplants.
Anything you create with a 4cyl engine is a go-kart. V6s do not count. Sorry.
Really, there hasn’t been a real Mustang made since 1971 or ’72. The ’73s were pale imitations of the real thing. Even a CAMARO could beat one.
End of rant. 🙂
I respect your right to your opinion, and I’m afraid I agree with you in that you’re getting old.
Especially when my 3.7L, 305-hp V6 will run circles around all of the V8 Mustangs I previously owned, and outhandle them. And get 30 mpg on the highway.
That being said, I might have to spring for one last V8 Mustang, before I’m too old to actually enjoy it!
I’m pushing 50 myself, and I agree in an admittedly old-fashioned way that there are just some vehicles that I would not own without a V8, despite the truth BuzzDog stated that today’s 6-cylinders (even the oft-referenced Camry V6) will run circles around yesterday’s V8s, performance-wise. Full-size pickups are my favorite personal example; when I hear an EcoBoost F-150 drive by, a little piece of my soul cries. I will always enjoy the sound of a V8 driven with some urgency. Even the 4.8 in my old Silverado made me smile when I pushed the skinny pedal hard.
As always: YMMV, NTTAWWT, $0.20, get off my lawn, etc.
I pushed 50 so hard that it added 5 just to be vindictive, but I never understand the “more power” mantra so espoused by so many. There seems, in my opinion, more fun to be had thrashing a little motor at the ragged edge of its life than occasionally emitting a microburst of the power on tap in a V8. The adage is that it is more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slowly. I, for one, find that to be the truth. Kinda like Sir Mix-A-Lot’s line “36-24-36? Only if she’s 5’3”!
I’ve also left 50 in my wake, and I hope I didn’t sound anti-V8 – far from it, if you carefully read the last line of my post.
In fact, I agree with pl8ster about the F-150. If I buy a truck anytime soon, I’d be likely to hold out for an F-150 with a V8, versus an Eco-Boost. I have nothing against the EB; it’s just that I’ve owned two trucks, and both were old enough to vote by the time I traded them in. I’d rather not complicate things with a turbocharger.particulatly as we get into the 2030s and I’m trying to keep the thing running for another year.
My current V6 Mustang isn’t anything like the four-cylinder, poverty-spec ones I drove as new cars while I was still in high school, college and grad school, before I “graduated” to V8 GTs. No, this one is like dating someone very different from your current “type,” if you can relate to that analogy. It causes you to live at the edge of your current paradigm, and perhaps even question your inherent beliefs. And at the end of the day, you may end up with your old flame (the V8). But for awhile, you simply sit back and value a fling with the plucky, nimble one who is a bit cheap (the V6).
Man, after writing that, I may need a cigarette. And I don’t even smoke… ?
Ford’s predecessor to the current 5.0, the 5.4 3V V8, was one of the worst engines ever put in a pickup. A poorly engineered POS. Yet people still perceive the 5.0 as being the “safe” bet.
Maybe it is, but as a 5.4 owner I certainly wouldn’t make that assumption.
It’s really not a fair comparison because the crux of the 5.4 problem was the spark plug issue, which was only made worse with the rupe goldburg spark plug design. The 5.0 is more like the old 4.6 2Vs and 4Vs
No, the $1000 busted spark plug change is just the tip of the iceberg. Google “5.4 ticking” and the oiling issues with the top end. Heck, Google how to clean the engine, since if it gets wet it’s likely a COP or two will fail. The entire engine is a POS. Mine made it about 70K before the problems started.
Jim Huber is laughing at you.
I’ll echo what others have said. I had an ’80 2.3 I wanted to put a 5.0 in. But in the end it was easier and cheaper to sell it and buy an ’84 5.0 GT…which was in a lot better condition as well. Of course that was 20 years ago but I think 5.0s can still be had for reasonable prices and aren’t difficult to find.
You’ll likely never get your money back with a drivetrain swap. If you’re looking for a project and enjoy doing that kind of stuff maybe you’d find it worthwhile, but given the basic questions you asked I’m doubting that is the case. 😉
Either slap a cheap turbo on the 2.3L or look for one with a V8 already. If you hop up the 2.3L, you could upgrade brakes, springs, shocks etc to stock 5.0 stuff and it would work pretty well since the engine is lighter. Trans and rear would be OK if you didn’t beat on it and if they are in good order already. If you break the trans then a C4 is a cheap/strong upgrade. 8.8 rear would be easy to find if you break the 7.5.
Realistically you can find a beater 5.0 and fix it up cheaper than buying a nice 2.3L and swapping everything out UNLESS you really buy this one right and accumulate the upgrade parts at rock bottom prices.
My uncle (by marriage) took the wind out of my sails when his answer to my question, same as yours (how to make my 2.3L Mustang faster) was simply and succinctly, “Save your money.”
Insuring a 5.0L-powered Mustang would have been cost prohibitive for the teenage me, which was a major consideration at that time. With that said, and regardless of your age, I hope those close to you support your decision, whatever it ends up being.
I admire your can-do attitude, but I think the best answer is to echo others’ advice of “pass this one by and find a 5.0 instead”. Basically the entire driveline and the braking system will need to be replaced. Unless the 2.3 you’re considering is minty-fresh with no rust and a well-kept interior, in which case the work might be worthwhile, but still won’t be easy.
The blessing and the curse of 80’s Mustangs is the relative lack of engine options–the V6 was dropped sometime around ’85 so it was just the 2.3 I4 and the 5.0 V8. Other things can probably be made to fit, but unless you’ve got fabrication skills, they’re probably all going to fall under the “crazy expensive” and “not worth it” headings.
So the answer to your question either way is 5.0, really. Respectable numbers “out of the box” and endless build potential. Just a matter of either waiting for one in your price range, or if the 4-cyl you’re looking at is really worthwhile as a build platform, committing to the work.
If you have some motivation, a 2.0 Ecoboost swap would be very sweet. With 240hp and 270 lb-ft of torque it should move the relatively lightweight Fox body Mustang quite nicely. The swap been done a couple times, and an internet search for “fox body mustang ecoboost” will probably turn up some results. I say the 2.0L instead of the 2.3L because the 2.0L has been in production for a few years and there are probably a few million on the roads. Also, Ford offers the 2.0 EB as a crate engine, and probably also offers wiring and an ECU.
Even with the turbo, intercooler, and associated plumbing, the EB would probably be lighter than the 2.3 Lima. Those Limas are…very sturdy engines.
For any Fox suspension upgrade look at BMR Suspensions. (full discloser, I work there).
I did this switch on my ’90 coupe, back in the mid-’90s. It was easy…only took me a few hours, and only cost a couple or three grand.
I traded it in on a GT of the same year, with similar mileage. 🙂
Sorry to sound like a smart aleck, but seriously…that’s usually the best answer to this question.
Folks, I owned an ’87 4 cyl Mustang (non convertible) for several years and asked the same question. I learned a lot about this little car. Imho you have 2 practical options.
1. As noted earlier, its much easier to buy a V8 convertible, in place of modding this car. Swapping in a V8 should involve many changes. The factory V8 cars had a stronger transmission and rear axle. They had 4 shocks on the back to control axle movement, stronger front springs, better radiator, wheels and sway bars. The engine wiring harness was different.
Sourcing the parts involves you finding a V8 Mustang parts car and stripping it. It’s a lot of work. It’s best just to start with a V8 car.
2. You can add some power easily to the 4 cylinder engine. Ditch the intake duct silencer and advance the ignition timing to 12 deg BTDC will give you 10 – 15 hp over stock, for free.
The next step is to install a cylinder head from a Ford Ranger with a 2.3 (or 2.5, not sure). It has bigger valves. Consider a better camshaft at the same time. These change is easy, this 4 cyl engine is very easy to work on. But you’ll never turn it into a road rocket. The power will increase from a miserable 88 to about 120 on a good day…
It doesn’t help to put lipstick on a pig. It doesn’t improve the looks any and greatly annoys the pig.
Buy a K&N intake & a loud exhaust. Enjoy the open air and 30mpg with a more modded sounding car. Pretend you’re filling it up twice as often like you would be with a 5.0 and save the funds towards a down on a 4.6 or a 300hp V-6 from this century. I rode in a 300 hp 2008 yesterday and it was quick!
08s had the 4.0 Cologne, rated at 210 horsepower.
I asked yesterday and it’s a 2012 model. Sorry for the error. I don’t memorize the details anymore like I used to. But flash a 19641/2 thru 1970 model on the TV for half a second and I’ll get it right every time.
There’s one like this sitting at a gas station near work. I believe these had about 88 hp
Fox body V8 Mustangs are about te best bang for te buck on the market right now. It would be foolish to invest in a 2.3 Fox Body Mustang unless you are particularly fond of wasting money.
I would recommend at least giving a 5.0 fox a test drive before you bite the bullet on a 2.3. I had an ’89 LX vert with a 5.0 and AOD. That engine was a gem and really made the car.
Easy enough with three people. One to unscrew gas cap, another to drive it outta the way and the last guy to maneuver a v8 mustang into position so you can replace cap.
Next question!!
^^^^^^That’s a nice/funny retort, Manbridge—I’m gonna remember that one!
I’ll make it easy for you.
Buy my 84 Mustang GT convertible. 5.0 and five-speed manual. Fairly solid and not a lot of kms. Almost all original with a new top and windshield. It runs well but a project I can’t go ahead with as Mrs. M doesn’t want me involved with any more project cars. My pain would be your gain. I’m a big Fox body fan and have let a few others go for various reasons. That’s life…
I love the “buy a 5.doh” comments. Your head is set on buying a 25-35 year old car, you’re not going to be getting one with fresh shocks, brakes, bearings, etc., etc., etc., Even with a v8, you’ll be replacing everything but the body, glass, and some of the plastic, and still have something slower than a turbo miata.
The answer to your question when amended to “something with enough balls for 2017, not just 1987” is turbod and mapped LS, wilwood brakes, and a whole lotta chassis stiffening.
And a turbo Miata will get it’s clock cleaned by stock new Mustangs. Whoop Dee Doo. Having enough balls for 2017 doesn’t mean “needs to keep up with 2017 hellcats”, if you’d like to keep up with modern muscle it’s perfectly possible, people were running 11s-13s in Mustangs years before factory Mustangs were. And at the very least a 5.0 will make the car feel fast, which is all that really matters.
Swap in the full suspension and brakes from a 94-98 GT with the front brakes from a 99-04. That gets you much improved geometry and tuning, 8.8 rear end, 4 wheel disc, and twin piston calipers, which will utterly transform it. Bonus, you also now have 5 lug and it’s all readily available from junkyards cheap. You want even better get 94-04 13″/11.65″Cobra calipers, rotors and brackets and you have stopping power nearly as good as a current Mustang GT(if not better in the lighter Fox chassis), you’ll need 17″ wheels to fit these. If you can find one, a axle from a 87-88 Tbird turbo coupe would be even better than the SN95 one since it also uses discs and the 8.8, but also sports 3.73 gears!
Find a 5.0 from a 1996 Explorer, these are the same as the 93-95 Cobra GT40 engines but with a milder cam, 97-01 are good too but have the p heads with a weird spark plug angle preventing some headers from fitting. Also, a T5 from a 99-04 V6 these are common as dirt and are stronger than the T5s used in the factory 5.0 Foxbodies.
Stick a Zetec four in there….
He said hd wants more power, not more problems with the head gasket……
I’m tempted to say “Buy a different car instead”, but other than that you might spend some time mousing around here.
The quickest way to do this, would be to perform a full engine swap, to the 2.3L Turbo SOHC engine. You may find a decent used engine, from a Turbo Thunderbird. You will need to get a higher-volume fuel pump(recommended), the ECM, wiring harness, induction system with your engine.
You can use this website, to source used parts for this project:
http://www.car-part.com
Disclaimer: The salvage yards may not warranty the parts, since this would be a conversion, and you may have a core charge for the engine.
It is recommended, that you hear the engine running, BEFORE you buy it.
Number one: Take your time. The very worst thing you can do is buy it assuming you’ll be able to turn it into what you want cheaply or easily. Been there, done that.
IF and ONLY IF it’s super-cheap and in good shape, buy it and drive it while you spend a year researching (join that forum!). Enjoy some relaxed open air motoring, and spend weekends detailing and maintaining and learning about the car (being careful NOT to spend money to upgrade anything). It’s like a preview, and will give you the convertible experience at least.
Then, once you realize that a swap is crazy hard and expensive, take your time finding a 5-liter that fits the bill, and sell this one next spring.
http://www.lsxmag.com/features/car-features/cheap-thrills-matt-happels-turbo-4-8l-swapped-ford-fairmont/
Mustang shares the same platform as Fairmont.
Mustang owners are doing the same swap.
Check his time slip on the video.
It’s not a mustang but much worse.
However , see what powers a budget rod that can spank some high priced muscle.
https://www.reddit.com/r/cars/comments/3j0rn0/mother_fcker_jones_turbo_volvo_spanks_lambo_vette/