I have been involved with the old car hobby since childhood. My primary area of interest has been automobiles from the 1950s to early ’60s. I got my first old car in 1984, a 1962 Mercury Comet S-22. Since then I have owned several cars from this era. I have done repairs and minor restoration, dealt with mechanics, worked inside sales at an antique car parts supplier, written for automotive publications, and have visited and participated in numerous car shows. During this time I have discovered that many assumptions people make about old cars are not quite true, or are totally false. So I think it is time for me to set the record straight and present facts and evidence that debunk these commonly held beliefs.
Before we begin, I should point out that these are my personal viewpoints, which are colored by my own tastes and preferences. I know, I’m dealing with one of the most dangerous of things–opinions! But I press on, confident in knowing that you will wholeheartedly agree with me, and will let me know in the comments. 🙂
Old cars are money pits. They can be. But consider this: In nearly all cases, I have sold the classic cars that I’ve bought for more money than I paid for them. Of course, I had lots of repair and maintenance expenses which somewhat exceeded the profit I would have made. But what that means is that I got to own and enjoy these cars for very little actual cash outlay. The real money pits are new cars, which are expensive and depreciate fast.
Convertibles are more desirable than sedans or hardtops. Not to me. Granted, convertibles look sporty and dashing, and you look good driving one. But the disadvantages are many: the top fabric tears and leaks, you have a lot of wind noise, the car is less solid, and you are constantly buffeted by high winds when the top is down. The plastic rear window becomes dull. You can feel very vulnerable and exposed. And there may only be a few days a year when a convertible is actually enjoyable. Plus you’re paying more than double compared to the same model hardtop. If you love it, go for it–but for me there are enough other interesting models to make me happy.
“Loaded” cars with options like power windows, power seats, and air conditioning are more desirable. The more complication, the more things that can go wrong. More clutter under the hood, with less space to work. I wouldn’t prefer a classic car with air conditioning. It probably doesn’t work, and will cost a lot to fix. If it’s so hot outside that I would need A/C, I probably won’t be taking a classic car out anyway.
Power windows can be convenient, but if they stop working (which they probably will) it’s very inconvenient to take the doors apart and put in new motors and whatnot. Crank windows usually last forever.
Power steering, especially on these big boats, can be a real boon. And I’ve never had a problem with power steering. Power brakes can be nice, but on my ’58 Ford and ’59 Chevy (which have manual brakes), I really don’t think they’re needed.
It’s hard to find parts for old cars. Actually, with today’s internet, it’s easier than ever. In the “bad old days”, you had to comb through the little ads in Hemmings Motor News trying to find what you want. Maybe someone in Rabbit Hash, Kentucky with a bunch of junk cars in the back forty had that elusive part. Now we have eBay, Craigslist, Facebook, et al. where searching and finding is so much easier.
I myself have recently found some very obscure and necessary parts: 1958 Ford body trim, 1960 Dodge speedometer lens assembly and backup light lenses, 1962 Mercury Monterey power brake pedal, and lots more. As it is written, “Seek and ye shall find!”
You can’t keep an old car outside. Garaging is ideal, but not always possible. Based on my own experience, I would say get a car cover, and keep the car waxed. After a rainstorm, lift the cover and towel off any water droplets on the paint surface. I have done this with a few cars, and even after many years of being stored outside, no significant deterioration occurred.
Gas was cheap in the 1950s, so people didn’t care if they got 12 miles per gallon. Adjusted for inflation, gas prices in the ’50s were about $3.40/gal., about where they are today. People did care about gas mileage, but they also cared about performance, and the only way to get good “pick-up” in a big, heavy car was to put a big V-8 engine in it, often with a 4-barrel carburetor on top. However, by the late ’50s, many people were getting tired of feeding “gas hogs”, and sales of compacts and small imports were on the rise.
Everyone in the ’50s drove hot rods, lead sleds, and 1955-57 Chevys, and they only listened to rock ‘n roll. If your only experience with ’50s cars is going to typical car shows, I can see why you would believe this. It is not true–these shows are a distortion of historical reality. Corollary: Everyone in the ’60s drove muscle cars, except for hippies who drove clapped-out VW buses with peace signs painted on them.
Old cars are built like tanks which makes them safer, and they will sustain little or no damage when they hit plastic-y modern cars. I hear this a lot from “non-car” people. Of course, the dynamics of every collision are different–but typically, you’re safer in a modern vehicle with its advanced safety features than in one of these ’50s deathtraps. Older cars often lack the safety features we now take for granted: They didn’t have crumple zones, collapsible steering columns, or side door beams, and they often lacked safety glass. Before the 1960s, many cars had unpadded dashboards, and most didn’t have seatbelts, or even a provision for seatbelts.
Everyone is jealous of your classic car and wants to buy it. Selling a classic car is harder than you think. It seems fewer people are interested in these old bombs, and the people who do appreciate them are becoming older and are not inclined to take on new encumbrances. Conversely, many sellers’ asking prices are too high, so weeks and months go by and the cars don’t sell.
Marvel Mystery Oil and STP Oil Treatment are “snake oil”. I don’t think so. I’ve read too many testimonials from people who swear by them. I have used both with good results. I’ve used STP in all my engines, and I’ve never had internal engine problems in any of my cars. I believe in adding the STP while the engine is running, so it doesn’t just become a solid blob resting in the bottom of the oil pan. STP also contains zinc, which I think is good for old engines.
I’ve used Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas, which does a good job of dissolving gunk and goo in fuel lines, carburetors, and fuel injectors.
Old cars drive better than new cars. The word “better” is subjective. Generally, new cars drive more precisely, with with lower noise levels, and more responsive power. Best for high-speed, interstate highway travel. Certain classic cars of the ’50s/’60s do have a certain kind of soul-satisfying smoothness that is part of their nostalgic appeal. And sporty cars from that era are more engaging and fun to drive, again with a vintage feel that modern cars can’t duplicate.
You can’t get a good paint job at one of those bargain places. I can’t speak for Earl Sheib, but I’ve had two cars painted at Maaco and one at a local body shop, and I was very satisfied with the results. In New Jersey, some former Earl Sheib places are still in business, but since Earl’s death they now operate under different names.
Using unleaded gas in an older car will cause valve recession. Unless you climb a lot of mountains or pull heavy loads, this probably won’t happen. I’ve been using unleaded since the late ’80s and I’ve never experienced this problem.
Muscle cars are fast. Not by modern standards. Certain Teslas and other recent cars can do 0-60 in 4 to 6 seconds, which blows away the old muscle cars. So if we’re strictly talking about speed, there is no reason to own a 60s/70s muscle car except the fact that you like it and it looks cool.
You shouldn’t put radial tires on cars not designed for them. This ad from 1967 never mentions this. If you put radials on an older car, it will handle better, steer more precisely, and ride more steadily. It won’t hurt anything.
You shouldn’t drive a classic car during the winter. I won’t drive a classic if the roads are slushy and covered with salt. However, if the roads are dry but still have some salt residue on them, I drive on them anyway. Hasn’t caused any additional rust. What really deteriorates old cars is lack of use. So if you drive your classic year ’round you’re probably better off.
Rust is fatal. Depends on where it is and how much. If it’s repaired and it looks good cosmetically, I’m OK with that. Let’s be thankful the car survives at all. In the ’50s, ’60s, and later, a lot of cars in daily use had rust. I don’t mind a little “patina”. But I’m against the practice of clearcoating the rusty/worn paint to “preserve the patina”. It just looks artificial and fake. Either touch up and polish, or repaint the whole car.
One of my ’50s cars, upon inspection, had rust holes in the frame under the doors on one side. Because I didn’t want structural failure, I had a garage weld some steel plates directly on the frame to strengthen it. Never had any problems, and the doors continued to open and close precisely and there is no body flex.
Used Cars starring Kurt Russell is the funniest old car movie ever made. Actually, that’s true. 🙂
Nothing is impossible. I know something that’s impossible: You can’t strike a match on a bar of soap!
Well, that’s it. You should feel much more educated after reading this. Be sure to tell all your friends how smart you are! 🤣
Further CC reading:
QOTD: What’s Your Favorite Automotive Myth? by Paul Niedermeyer
I concur with a LOT of your statements. (IMO) old cars NEED to be kept clean, otherwise the thinking is “it’s just an old car that no one cares about.” True, your V-6 Camcord/Tesla/etc. can out accelerate the hairiest muscle cars (and handle & stop as well!) but they will NEVER possess the coolness factor of pulling up in a classic Mopar/Chevy/Ford. My ’70 Charger 500 is 56 years old, has 147k on the original drivetrain, and has its share of rattles etc., BUT it never fails to attract admiring glances, thumbs up and “Do you want to sell it” queries, and puts a smile on my face! 🙂
My ’63 Chevy II Nova didn’t have seat belts. Bought it in 1977.
When I asked my father about that when we were buying the car, he said, “Then don’t hit anything.”
As for tires, my brother and I put a set of “take-off” Michelin radials on it and the ride/handing improved immensely.
Just excellent from start to finish!
Agree with just about everything. For those cars stored outdoors under covers, do your tires stay ok?
In So Cal, no AC is a problem. It probably depends on the individual car and the AC.
Excellent article. In 1979, I drove a 1970 caprice. It was big and bulky and got 9 mpg. I parked it in 1984 and drove a chevrolet citation. It s the only car I regret selling after 3 years to this day. The advent of front wheel was a god-sent, especially in snow.
I agree with everything stated here, especially about “Patina”. If someone can afford to clearcoat the car, they can paint it. Even tractor store paint with the car in one color looks better than “Patina”. That goes for rat rods too.
Loving the shirt. And the wisdom. Cheers
The myth I hear most is “old cars were built better than they build them today”
The reality: They are not. But the ones that were designed, assembled, or maintained poorly, got scrapped early. They are not around to be evaluated today. Comparing the small set of survivors to everything current, is apples to oranges data.
It really does depend on the old car.
A 1958 Lancia is an absolutely exquisite thing, whereas a 1958 Plymouth is basically a piece of crap, if we’re comparing build and finish quality.
But try comparing a 1990 Accord to almost anything now, even BMW. The Accord was built with more care and it shows.
One of the first no BS articles I have seen about owning older cars. Thanks for actually telling the truth about safety and using unleaded gas in old cars. Only time I have seen people have issues with valve seals were in pickup trucks being used as pickup trucks or drag racing old high compression engined muscle cars.
I used Quaker State high milage high zinc oil in my old Volvo per my mechanic, and put over 150k miles on it in the early 2010s and it still ran like a top when it was totaled out.
Having owned both air conditioned and non-air conditioned early Sixties cars as at least semi-daily drivers, I would say that here in the south, air conditioning makes things much, much more pleasant. Many summer days are perfect for driving, except for the heat and humidity. The AC was well worth the price of a rebuilt York compressor and a few cans of Freon.
The less you drive your old car, the less important it is, I suppose.
Totally agree about power windows. Arrgh! Give me a simple crank.
1985, i was over 25 y.o. when i purchased my 1st car. To that point, living in Binghamton NY & having a not great paying job, bicycle & a purchased used 82 honda CX-500 motorcycle were my transportation.
Then my employer relocated me to a location 10 miles 1 way from the apartment i had. Still fine- commute on the bicycle- 45 minutes. Faster with the mcy, but colder & snowy weather was coming. bus service did not reach the new location.
was gonna need a car.
That 1st car? a 63 ford galaxie 4d Hardtop. $850
In my youth, parents had driven 61 ford wagon & then a 63 country squire wagon- the Galaxie longroof.
(both still stored at their property- a tale for a different time.)
My dad was a Ford-Guy & did all his own work. My buying such an old car was my intentional decision to get me on “The Road” to learning from him about car maintenance & how to repair my own ride.
It worked.
I recall, EGR valve, valve guide seal replacements, the lore of working on big drum brakes, & rear axle bearing, replacing a corroded main electrical line. front end suspension parts, the frustration of an engine that would not stay timed.
That particular one proved the benefit of the family owned hulk in the back yard. seems the breaker point plate inside dist. had enlarged wear on the pivot hole that accounted for the mechanical advance. & we had a good direct spare on hand. suddenly timing issues went away.
In cold weather , the starter died. again the family wagon came to rescue. Dad had his rebuilt, never installed 63 starter, on the stairs to his basement.
a 3 bolt drop in replacement, free solution.
As my 2nd winter of car ownership approached, an ad went up in the employee lunch area for a 2 door 63 galaxie- rougher shape- pitched as a winter car.
That became mine for $225 & soon i learned “MASH Hospital” fiberglass, metal screen & bondo Body repair to close off the holes at rear fender wells that let water into the cabin. still as a functioning winter car, that 2-door was an initial struggle.
heater core had v poor flow, auto trans was funky – not shifting into high till over 50 mph. & in time Power steering hose developed a leak.
all were fixed. dad’s 63 wagon donated its heater core, my fiberglass body work held the water out & did not break. the trans issue was seized downshift linkage. lubricating the joints & working it free solved the issue &then it drove much more calmly. PS hoses were made by the folks who did construction & farm implement hydraulic hoses. eventually, sagging rear springs- those i addressed with air shocks. Kanter Automotive was/is an old car owners friend.
as for resale? it is entirely possible you can end up being the “final owner” of an old car.
That was likely the case for both of my galaxies.
at the low $ handovers, am pretty sure they ended up in demoltion derby service.
still, the knowledge gained from maintaining old cars as my first 4wheel transport & improving its mechanical function was well worth the costs, even if there was little recoup at the end of my ownership time.
and today? i have a fleet of 5. ranging for an 87 ford escort wagon 3 hondas (2000 & 2 2008s) & my new car- a 2013 mini clubman. the escort is on loan to brother in NC, the winter use 2000 civic is summering as a learning vehicle for a friend with newly gotten license. pretty sure 2013 is the terminal year of car production i will ever own & work on. no screens, thank you.
As a big fan of McIntosh, I recognise where Binghamton is right away.
Great post. The only point I might argue with is manual vs. power windows. At one time, I specialized in the Volvo 240. I had dozens of cars pass through my ownership, and serviced many more. I’d say that the number of power window regulators I replaced was about equal to the number of manual window regulators. Of course, that’s just for one make and model. People could save a lot of time and trouble by occasionally lubricating the window run channels with a bit of silicone.
I concur on most of your points, although I consider STP, Marvel Mystery Oil and other such treatments in the same realm as the endless supplements purporting all sorts of health improvements to humans. I stay away from both kinds, but help yourself.
I’ve had my ’66 F100 for 39 years now, and it has worked well for what I had in mind for it from the get-go, as a work truck which would only receive the most minimal required maintenance necessary. Between its purchase price and repairs, I’ve probably spent some $3000-$4000 on it. Not bad, given all the work it’s done for me. But YMMV.
I think this is one of the better essays on old cars that I’ve read. Not that I’m an expert–but I have also owned “old cars” (from the 1980s and 1990s) into the 2020s.
I’m not sure about the “Miracle OIl”. By biggest disagreement with the author regards availability of parts for 80s/90s cars.
NO, it is not “easier than ever” thanks to the internet. It is “less difficult” than it would be without the internet. Quite a few parts are, in fact no longer available–NLA. Some of them directly affect the performance and behavior of the vehicle, and the aftermarket parts are not up to speed. For example, when your Rabbit GTI or Mk1 GTI starts to not shift well (it WILL happen if the car is old enough or has enough miles), it means the linkage needs new shift bushings. One needs BOTH the new parts, AND the skills (and little tool) to do the job correctly. Otherwise, the shifter just doesn’t feel right, makes funny noises–and may not go into reverse.
Similarly, while this is less likely to happen, when the fuel gauge does not work because of a bad “fuel sending unit”, well, good luck. This happened to me, and I had an excellent shop cobble together a replacement fuel sender for a Mk2 VW that combined Mk1 Rabbit internals into an Mk2 fuel pump. Did it work? Well, it allowed me to watch the fuel tank go from 3/4 toward “E”, which is better than using the trip odometer and “estimating” where you are, because needle shows “E” or “F”.
I totally agree, less is more. And I would say, get a car that was both, pretty popular in terms of new car sales “back in the day”, and also that was well loved, so many of them survive today.
The more surviviors, the bigger the market for parts, the more incentive to provide them.
Two of my favorite older cars are original (1990-93, NA6) Mazda Miatas, and the original (1985-89 AW11) Toyota MR2. The Miata was a hit, people liked them, and MANY have survived and led garaged lives (being a convertible helps motivate one to garage it), and their parts situation is prety good. Plus, the original car was built to 1990s Toyota levels of quality.
Does the MR2 have as many parts? Toyota did not sell as many–but these were well-built, and many remain.
Compare that to the VW Rabbit GTI and Mk1 GTI. These cars did NOT sell at Miata levels, even in 1984, the height ot Rabbit GTI appeal. Not as many remain today. But what is unfortunate is that, despite the fact that these cars are based on a platform which VW sold many MILLIONS, VW does not support the cars today. AT ALL, IMO.
Also, one final note–I like the “solution” if one cannot garage one’s old car, but IMO, a garage makes as HUGE difference in the longevity of the car.
I garaged my 86 GTI from the time I got it in 2000, till I sold it in 2020. And I did drive it in winter, after the salt had abated and weather was very cold, clear and dry, and car did not suffer much, if at all. SITTING, in an old car that was not pampered for the first 14 years of its existence, would cause more issues than driving on dry roads. Never while roads are wet, freshly salted or damp.
Not directly related to the subject although it could be linked in some ways with car myths, in “Life with Archie” issue #106, there’s a story titled “Safe and Sorry” where Archie wrote an editorial in the school newspaper about auto safety and his friends Betty, Veronica and Jughead have read his article and they didn’t want to take a ride in his old jalopy Betsy.
http://web.archive.org/web/20240304214552/https://readallcomics.com/life-with-archie-106/
Old cars are a lot of fun. I’d love to have one to tinker on, and in fact, my buddy would give me a 1979 Cadillac any time I wanted it but alas, I have no place to park it.
I recently came upon a theory, with which I agree: we harken back to the cars of our youth. In the case of my classic car owning buddy, he has a 1979 Lincoln MkV and a 1978 Cadillac DeVille. He was twelve years old at the time. This is the reason pre-war cars are hard to sell. Prospective buyers are six feet under!
I do think we harken back to the cars of our youth but I think there are are several exceptions, like the cars you were exposed to weren’t necessarily new or late model, I certainly would say my automotive interests are mostly frozen to my childhood/teens, but that spans a lot of cars between 1950s to the mid 2000s.
Prewar cars just fundamentally have a lot going against them in that they really aren’t adequate for modern traffic use and definitely not for interstate use. Conversely a car from the 60s really are fine, as long as you can get over the inherent reduced safety and thirst they can do the job of getting to point A to point B in relative comfort at speed about as adequate as anything currently made.
“Power windows can be convenient, but if they stop working (which they probably will) it’s very inconvenient to take the doors apart and put in new motors and whatnot. Crank windows usually last forever.”
You’re so right, Stephen …..
————————————–
So it’s July, 1957. We’re returning from a picnic in Mom’s boyfriend’s ’55 Olds 98 Holiday ….
…. with *power windows* ….
We’re doing 45 MPH, and 4-yr-old Me is in the front seat, watching all the buttons & dials.
Then I say “I think I’m gonna throw up.”
Mom, in the back seat, yells, “Lean out the window!” as we slow down to stop.
(of course, no kid seat, seat belts, or AC)
Before I reach the window, out comes the 1/2-digested hot-dogs & cole slaw ….. and drains down the opening into which the window was lowered.
The power-mechanism shorts out; I get cleaned up; and we have another 20 minutes in the now-stinky car.
Epilogue:
— Window was eventually fixed.
— The boyfriend married my Mom. We kept the Olds until replacing it with a ’63 98.
— But I never found out about the tech who was tasked to fix the pukey window.
I remember seeing that ’55 Plymouth here on CC with the for sale sign. It was located in Toronto, I learned with some research Googling the location showed me it was no longer there. Had I known I would have gone to at least photograph it. But absent CC I never would have seen it at all. Anyway, the historic photos of the garage showed that car sitting out for many years (5?) awaiting disposition. So sometimes it can take a while to sell an old car, unless an owner decides they have had enough and send it off to the crusher.
Your writeup removes some of the mystery around old car ownership. Thanks!
Great article!
As I drive my old VWs daily the thing I most miss from moderns is proper heating/ventillation. Air con. can be added, as can heated seat (using mats under the original seat covers) – useful in old air cooled cars and buses.
Safety? Schmafety – that’s why the family has a modern mega SUV….
Great article, Stephen. All of your points seem to be solidly rooted in common sense. As to the Marvel Mystery Oil and STP, I’ve actually seen a number of sources recommend using Marvel Mystery Oil during an engine rebuilding process, which makes sense to me. I don’t know about STP, but it comes in a cool can and when I was a kid, we all wanted those STP stickers for our bikes and notebooks. It must be good. 😉
I agree! The worst thing we’ve run into was a mechanic with “no sense of urgency.”
I was told how my 1978 Fleetwood (425-4 barrel) needed head gaskets, and before I could decline, the engine was pulled. What a nightmare. He did have the heads machined and they did the valves, but it didn’t truly need any of this work.
We’ve dropped down to one classic car. As I age, I just can’t keep up with two.
Great article and I really love the red Chevy!
Excellent, and I concur in almost every respect, having bought my first vintage car in 1977 (’62 Dodge Polara 500 convertible, white & red!) and gone on to being a part-time vintage car dealer for 40 years, I think about 220 total at last count… I need to figure it out one of these days. So I’ve had a bit of experience in this area.
It is getting harder to sell, luckily I’m done with that. Some of those cars are extremely valuable now, but some of the really inexpensive ones were just as much fun. One point: a garage for vintage cars isn’t mandatory but a very good thing, any car will deteriorate if outside for years. Here in CO and the SW in general it’s sunburn for paint and upholstery, oh and hail (very common, car dealers even have awnings over lot cars). In the NE it’s frequent exposure to humidity. Shelter is good ton have if you can.
Older vehicles drive differently and if you like this (I do !) there’s nothing quite like risking your life in an old death trap .
Modern synthetic oils are the cheapest Mechanic your vehicles will ever see .
-Nate
A good honest article. Now I know Stephen’s cars tend towards manual transmissions and six cylinders which I wouldn’t drive on a freeway around me either. Out of the six I have the only one I would avoid driving in freeway traffic would be the 65 F-100. Manual steering and drum brakes make it a no. The other five could handle it but would never be asked to do so anyway. The 91 and 98 can easily handle.
For me my enjoyment comes not only from driving them but from also working on them, which would seem never ending with 11 cars in total, but is not in actuality. Once done there are done outside general maintenance. Have some maintenance stories, three, to get over to Rich dealing with stuff like brakes, A/C, P2004, and speedometers. That as soon as I finish with the final assembly of the engine on the Park Lane. Seems I can’t find the heat riser valve, needed as a spacer, for the passenger side exhaust. The only downside to this is that the wife simply doesn’t understand any of this.
Actually, all my cars are automatics. I do drive them on the freeway, but only for short stretches.
My ’58 Ford has power steering but manual brakes; the ’59 Chevy has manual steering and manual brakes; and the ’60 Dodge has power steering and power brakes. Yes, all are sixes. I didn’t plan that, it just turned out that way. They drive fine and seem to be more reliable than the V-8 cars I’ve had from this era.
Picture: ’59 Chevy dash.
Probably should pay more attention to your stories instead of just looking at the cars being so typical of what I saw back then. I can understand how your sixes would be more reliable given the decades where they could be refined compared to the majors V8’s. My V8’s from the late 60’s are very reliable and should be for Ford Windsor small blocks and the FE. Mopar 360 and AMC 360 have so far been fine.
I never use lead substitute in anything either, but I do have one instance of exhaust valve recession. The exhaust valve in the number 8 cylinder in my ’65 Mustang’s 289 was sunk badly, but to be fair to the heads, I bought them out of a junkyard in 1994 for $100 and had them on the engine for something like 75-80,000 miles. I only noticed when I started getting a randomly dead cylinder, but even then, the compression pressure was something like 115 psi, so it took me quite a while to figure it out.
It didn’t help that a lot of the miles were freeway miles; I drove that car everywhere for years, and it doesn’t even come close to straining at 70-80 miles per hour. On the other hand, none of the heads of any of my Buicks showed any signs of valve recession at over 100,000 miles.
The only additive I’ve really ever used in the oil is Rislone, because it will sometimes quiet lifters with a slight tick, but it’s always temporary (in my experience).
Well written!
It has NOT been my experience that old cars are unreliable or need buckets of money poured into them. Mainly because I was careful not to buy cars with obvious neglect or indifference issues.
I have always championed the belief that everyone should enjoy the old car hobby in the manner that is appropriate…for them. There are lots of people out there ready to tell you how, and what, and in what manner you should be doing things to be considered a “real” car guy. Mark Twain wrote that “comparison is the death of joy” and he’s right. You’ve got to find your own lane. For many people, just reading about old cars and going to shows to see them in person gives them enough satisfaction. Others have the need to completely rebuild an old machine to Concours standards.There is a wide variation in the car hobby.
For me, I try to keep my machines in god running order and in presentable condition.And I drive them regularly. I do believe that every car should have lap belts installed. I’m realistic about their value, but they do add a degree of safety, and can prevent you from being ejected from the car during a collision. Laminated safety plate glass was adopted around 1939. It doesn’t crumble like modern glass, but it does splinter when smashed. You have to be realistic about old car safety, but I don’t think that we should refer to them as Death traps!
i agree and would like to add one more.They can be insured for their actual or agreed to value at reasonable cost.
I also strongly recommend installing & using full safety belts in any old car that didn’t have them from the factory
It may be a little bit of a challenge to add shoulder harnesses or upset the look of your interior, but impacting the A pillar or steering wheel in even a low speed collision with your face is bad.
Safety glass was standard on every post WW-II car or truck sold in the US. Early stuff was different than today, usually two laminated sheets of glass and a plastic inner layer. Before seat belts, it helped prevent ejection from the vehicle. At least that was the theory.
Dont know what is in modern STP, but it was originally an oil thickener, full of Viscosity Improver polymers that the oil companies used to create multi-vis oils in the first place. My auto shop teacher railed against the stuff. Just use a thicker oil to start with if you cant afford to fix a smoker or one with low oil pressure.
Today, instead of using questionable additives and modern passenger car oil, I use diesel engine oils in my old VW’s and Corvair. Used it in the 1957 Chevy. Non cat converter cars with flat tappet cams benefit from Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T.
Love that “Hess”, station pic!
Phenomenal article, Stephen! I learned a lot!
My “play” cars have included a ‘79 Audi 5000, ‘81 Fiat X 1/9, ‘66 Rambler American, ‘82 Plymouth Horizon, and ‘76 Triumph TR6. While I kept them only for 3 months to 3 years, only the TR6 got the loving full rebuild they all deserved (and then it was *stolen*).
Sadly I’m not mechanically inclined in the least, but am very thankful I have a great Saab operation in town who helps keep my ‘04 9-3 Aero convertible going. They even 3-D printed a plastic no-longer-available critical part for my active headlight balance system. I’ve had the car 19 years and get lots of compliments on it when I take it out for exercise.
One technical note is older cars with drum brakes don’t need power brakes because of the self servo action of the drum brake shoes. This as the idea behind Two Leading Shoe brakes, found on some high performance cars and a number of 60s motorcycles. The linkage is more complex, but the power is worth. Personally I only have one vehicle with a front drum brake and a Honda CM250C is too small and cheap to need the stopping power.
As for thoughts on options, high option cars are interesting but these days stripper cars are more interesting because of their rarity, and how common they were at the time.
Your observations about what people actually drove and listened to in the 50s and 60sg are spot on, my mother was a teenager and listened to classical music and rode the subway. They also owned a grand total of one V8 car, that they traded in on a Plymouth Valiant.
I’m OK with doing my own work but money and space are tight so I confine my classic vehicles to motorcycles, although my weekly driver pickup is 25 years old now, but a truck with fuel injection, coil on plug ignition and anti lock brakes doesn’t feel very classic
I missed this at first, and agreed with almost everything.
My sweet spot has been like yours – something mostly original that drives decently and looks presentable. Then you can tinker with minor stuff to make it better. Too needy or too nice have not been as enjoyable.
I keep looking online and periodically get excited about something, but the structure of my life at present does not allow for those occasional all-day garage sessions (or time for leisure drives). If that changes, I could see adopting something fairly simple and not too needy.
An alternative to Marvil Mystery Oil is Seafoam. My mechanic recommends it to clean carbon and deposits from fuel injectors and valves. Add to a full tank of gas and drive hard.
I’ve driven Triumphs as my primary car for about 30 years. I had a 78 Spitfire 1500 from 2010-19 while living in Austin, TX. Drove it more than 112,000 miles. No valve issues or issues with ethanol, but I did switch all the rubber to ethanol proof. Went to and from hilton Head a number of times, 22 hrs each way with my dog with no issues. Now I drive a 73 GT6 which in the 6 years I’ve owned it has covered 84,000 miles here in Colorado. Up over 12,000 feet regularly, no real issues other than the gas tank has some gunk once in a while.
Thanks for sharing, Lots of interesting information. Visiting from Jim Grey’s.